Orval-ish using Brettanomyces Bruxellensis

[kristfin]

i was ordering yeast from the states and somehow managed to buy wyeast 5112 bret brux instead of belgian sour blend i was planning for a flanders red.
i am thinking about using it to create an orval-ish type of a beer and would like to run 2 ideas by you.
both are 25 liter batches, mashing would be the same, 90 min at 63c, mashout 72c. primary would be t58 for 4-6 days, and then seccondary for 60 odd days with the bret

#1 (http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... opic=30160)

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4,00 kg       Pilsner (Weyermann) (1,7 SRM)             Grain        69,57 %       
0,75 kg       Caramunich II (Weyermann) (63,0 SRM)      Grain        13,04 %       
50,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (60 min)       Hops         25,6 IBU     
60,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (Dry Hop 7 daysHops          -           
25,00 gm      Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4,00 %]  (15 min)Hops         4,7 IBU       
25,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (15 min)       Hops         6,4 IBU       
1,00 items    Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15,0 min)          Misc                       
1,00 kg       Cane (Beet) Sugar (0,0 SRM)               Sugar        17,39 %       
1 Pkgs        Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (Wyeast Labs #5Yeast-Ale                 
1 Pkgs        SafBrew Specialty Ale (DCL Yeast #T-58)   Yeast-Ale                 


#2 (http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=68303)

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1,63 kg       Pilsner (Weyermann) (1,7 SRM)             Grain        28,58 %       
1,36 kg       Munich I (Weyermann) (7,1 SRM)            Grain        23,82 %       
1,36 kg       Pale Malt (Weyermann) (3,3 SRM)           Grain        23,82 %       
0,36 kg       Caramunich II (Weyermann) (63,0 SRM)      Grain        6,30 %       
16,80 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (Dry Hop 7 daysHops          -           
33,62 gm      Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4,00 %]  (40 min)Hops         10,9 IBU     
33,60 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (40 min)       Hops         14,8 IBU     
24,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (15 min)       Hops         6,0 IBU       
24,02 gm      Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4,00 %]  (15 min)Hops         4,4 IBU       
1,20 items    Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15,0 min)          Misc                       
1,00 kg       Cane (Beet) Sugar (0,0 SRM)               Sugar        17,49 %       
1 Pkgs        Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (Wyeast Labs #5Yeast-Ale                 
1 Pkgs        SafBrew Specialty Ale (DCL Yeast #T-58)   Yeast-Ale   


any comments?

[uncle_bad_touches]

#1 looks closer to what I'd expect from an Orval type beer. I brewed something similar using 50% pils, 20% pale, 10% caraviene/caramunich and 20% sugar. Late and dry hopped with styrians. Fermented with WLP510 and dumped the dregs of 2 Orval bottles in one keg and added WLP650 to the other. Haven't tasted the finished product yet, but the base pale ale was nice.

[kristfin]

thanks.
silly me, of course jamil has a clone recipe in his book. i'm going to use that one.

Code: Select all

4,60 kg       Pilsner (Weyermann) (1,7 SRM)             Grain        79,31 %       
0,70 kg       Caramunich II (Weyermann) (63,0 SRM)      Grain        12,07 %       
60,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (Dry Hop 21 dayHops          -           
60,00 gm      Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4,00 %]  (60 min)Hops         22,7 IBU     
30,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (15 min)       Hops         7,6 IBU       
30,00 gm      Styrian Goldings [5,40 %]  (0 min)        Hops          -           
1,00 items    Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15,0 min)          Misc                       
0,50 kg       Cane (Beet) Sugar (0,0 SRM)               Sugar        8,62 %       
1 Pkgs        Brettanomyces Bruxellensis (Wyeast Labs #5Yeast-Ale                 
1 Pkgs        SafBrew Specialty Ale (DCL Yeast #T-58)   Yeast-Ale                 


one question though. jamil says that one should conduct the secondary fermentation at 15°C. do you think it would matter a lot if it were at 19°, my fridge is broken.

[brewinhard]

I have gotten better results with Brett aging it in the low 60's (F). this also speeds up the time a bit. One big tip for adding the brett, is to be sure to rack the beer to a carboy before it is done fermenting. I typicall rack mine (even using T58) after 2-3 days. Then pitch the brett. This gives the brett some remaining sugars to feed on and wakes them up quite quickly. Then let the beer age for at least 2-3 months in the carboy before packaging. Doing it like this decreases oxidation to the finished product. Depending on how much brett flavor/aroma you like, mashing high 154 or so is also a good idea.

[PorkSlapper]

Im going to necro this thread to ask a question about equipment. With this beer using Brett. Brux. do I need to have equipment for use only with brett after this point, so not to contaminate any other beers I brew? Im thinking of brewing up the Val D' Or from brewing with classic style, having some ready for spring sounds like heaven.
-Pork

[Ozwald]

Im going to necro this thread to ask a question about equipment. With this beer using Brett. Brux. do I need to have equipment for use only with brett after this point, so not to contaminate any other beers I brew? Im thinking of brewing up the Val D' Or from brewing with classic style, having some ready for spring sounds like heaven.
-Pork

Brux is a yeast & can be cleaned up like any other yeast. You may want to err on the side of caution with your soft parts (it's always a wise idea), especially if you're using cheaper plastics. You can technically clean them up, but why take the risk. Higher grade plastics (especially ones that can safely handle high temps) I wouldn't worry about as much.

[brewinhard]

To err on the side of caution you might want to consider keeping an extra set of all porous plastic equipment separate for your wild/sour beers. Glass and stainless can be cleaned much more thoroughly and can be used for both normal and wild brews. I have been brewing sour and brett beers for many years in this fashion and have yet to have a cross infection.

[grainman]

My standard practice is to boil all the tubing and small keg parts. Of course I use silicon tubing, so it can handle that. Nothing can live through a 20 minute boil.