Too long to come to boil... what to expect?

[Alchemywunderkid]

I just bought a real wide, 32 quart aluminum stockpot that fits nicely over two burners on my stove so I did my first stove-top full wort boil yesterday. I got the notion to do the full wort when I filled it with water and brought it to a boil with both burners to create the oxide layer. It boiled... I said f' it, lemme give it a shot.

Problem is, I didn't think far enough ahead and realize that while it was indeed possible to reach a vigorous boil, it took for f'n ever. I'm curious what I can expect from the extended time the wort spent ramping up to a boil.

Here's the rundown (it's BCS's English IPA with alterations for availability):

5:00 pm - 2.5 gallons at 160ºF, flame off, steep 1.5 lbs of about equal parts Crystal 40, 120, and Victory for 30 minutes
5:30 - 4.5 gallons added to make 7 total, flames on, covered with foil lid
~6:00 - flame off at 160ºF, 7 lbs Mutons light DME added, whisked to incorporate, flame on
7:45 - vigorous boil achieved, 1.5 oz US Perle added
8:35 - 1 oz Fuggles, .5 oz Centennial added
8:40 - immersion chiller into wort
8:45 - flame out, 1.5 oz US Goldings added, chiller on
9:15 - wort at 65ºF, whirlpooled, covered
9:45 - transfer to fermentor, aerate, pitch 2.5 vials WLP007 Dry London Ale

Here's what I think I should've done:

1. Start bringing 5.5 gallons of water to a boil in brew kettle
2. Bring only 1.5 gallons to 160ºF for the steeping in a separate pot, steep the grains
3. Add steeping water to brew kettle as it is (hopefully) approaches a boil
4. Only add DME when boil is imminent

So I'd like to know what you all think i can expect in this brew, and what you think of my suggestions to myself for next time. Oh, and to get it out of the way... a serious propane burner system isn't a possibility due to lack of outdoor area.

I really would like to get this full wort thing to work so if there's any info you find lacking, I can fill in.

[henrythe9th]

you'll be ok just don't burn your counter top, like i did with the overhang from the pot..
that makes for a long brew day almost 2 hours to come to boil..

[Bugeater]

Here's what I think I should've done:

1. Start bringing 5.5 gallons of water to a boil in brew kettle
2. Bring only 1.5 gallons to 160ºF for the steeping in a separate pot, steep the grains
3. Add steeping water to brew kettle as it is (hopefully) approaches a boil
4. Only add DME when boil is imminent

That would be what I would do. For that amount of grain you only need about 3 quarts of water (2 qt per pound of grain). Doing this will get you into a proper habit for when you want to try partial grain.

Wayne

[larry78cj7]

Don't put foil on the kettle. You will trap DMS
Boil your steeping grain liquid and hops for an hour, not your extract.
The extract does not need to be boiled more that 15 minutes.
You are asking too much of a oven to boil 7 gallons. Either get a propane burner or look into a heat stick .http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm

[Alchemywunderkid]

Don't put foil on the kettle. You will trap DMS

Oh... I should clarify... I only foiled the kettle for the time it took to come to a boil. Once I hit a boil, it was off. Would any DMS be created (and subsequently trapped) by the steeping grain liquid while it ramps up to a boil?

[Sent From My iPhone]

[Alchemywunderkid]

CHEERS GUYS, thanks for the reassuring words. Bugeater, I took your advice on the water/grain ratio on my next brew (American Brown Ale). If anyone's interested, I have an update... and some questions.

The beer's been in the fermentor now for 2 weeks. Started at 66ºF for a day or two, then placed in water bath with a block of ice when the temp spiked up to 70 (probably didn't need the ice, it dipped the temp to far, but live and learn). Coasted between 64-66 for 4 days and then moved to a warmer room to finish up at 66-68, rousting the yeast once by gently rocking the bucket during the time in the new room.

Finally decided to take a hydrometer reading and it seems to be doing nicely at 1.017, 2 points to the north of the anticipated FG. It's amazingly clear (for my brews anyway) and tastes excellent.

Here're my questions...

1) I'm thinking of bottling this coming weekend. Is it worth potentially sacrificing the amazing clarity I have going for a potential point or two on the specific gravity? Would rousting the yeast again even make a difference at this point?
2) I've read that the yeast (WLP007) is quite flocculant, do you think the early temperature dips knocked some out of solution that are worth rousting?

I know this is a fermentation question, but it seems more appropriate to keep all the info about one batch together. Thanks!

[Fritz Eye]

Hey AW,

007 is a pretty quick yeast and have had 1.065 beers peek at around 4-5 days.
I myself would bottle and not risk agitating and oxidizing your beer over .002 points.
Sounds like a good beer and 1.07 is great for a Brown.
Beeing a Brooklynite I am not sure if our paths have crossed.
If you go to MBNAS or NYCHG meetings, give me a shout out.
Cheers.
Fritz