Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:55 pm

Proteins aren't converted to anything by enzymes in the mash. You've got to boil hard to get good hot break to get that shit out of solution, then chill the fuck out of your wort to get good cold break. The proteins will have coagulated, and (given good sanitation) you will have clear, stable beer.

Unless I have a complete brewery breakdown, I will not ever do a no-chill brew.
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roger456
 
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Sun Jul 01, 2007 11:25 pm

roger456 wrote:Proteins aren't converted to anything by enzymes in the mash. You've got to boil hard to get good hot break to get that shit out of solution, then chill the fuck out of your wort to get good cold break. The proteins will have coagulated, and (given good sanitation) you will have clear, stable beer.

Unless I have a complete brewery breakdown, I will not ever do a no-chill brew.


Well Roger456. Thats a mighty strident statement of your opinion. I dont think that it reflects the truth. But if you can effect reality by the firmness with which you state your view of it, then it might be getting close.

Here's my response. Its just my interpretation of the theory, so of course it needs to be taken with a measure of uncertainty built in.

High molecular weight protiens can in fact be nicely converted in the mash into both shorter protiens that are good for your head retention and also into amino acid chunks. The enzymes responsible for this are collectively known as proteases and the two main ones are protienase and peptidase. So I believe you are not quite right about that. Not of course that that has anything to do with No-chilling. No chilling has nothing to do with the mashing phase of wort prduction.

A reasonably vigarous boil will do just fine to coagulate the protiens that constitute hot break; and in fact too hard a boil can break the break up and cause some of it to re-dissolve. But, again, thats beside the point as no-chilling has nothing whatso ever to do with the boil phase of wort production.

You dont in fact have to "chill the fuck"out of your wort to get a good cold break. The cold break will form when the wort reaches the right temperature, regardless of how fast it gets there. In my experience (not sure about the theory) the break forms bigger "flocs" when the wort is chilled quickly, and this allows the wort to clear faster for a clean transfer.

But of course, speed is not an issue for no chill. The cold break can form slowly, in small chunks. Fine, it has at least overnight and probably longer to settle out and be excluded from your fermentor.

I have transferred crystal clear hot wort from my kettle to a no-chill container, and had a good two inches of cold break appear in it overnight. Thats pretty much just as good a break as I get when I use my whirlpool chiller. So I'm for sure not freaking about the lack of cold break on those occasions when I decide to no-chill. There is no need.

Good, clear, stable beer... well. I suppose thats at least partly in the eyes (taste) of the beholder. I have found little evidence that no-chill beers are either less good, less clear or less stable than chilled beers. The stable bit might still be up for grabs... I'm not sure if there are many/any aged no-chill beers around to prove the point one way or the other. Then again... the Belgians have been cooling their wort in Coolships for centuries and they are notorious for making beers that dont last very well...... aren't they???

But the good & clear parts... sorry. You are just wrong if you think a no-chill beer would be unable to meet those criteria. They can and do. Often and easily.

So Roger465... if you dont want to ever do a No-chill brew. Cool. I'm certainly not going to twist your arm. But I would suggest that the reasons you give for your decision are a little less rock solid than you might have given the impression that they are. They might still be perfectly valid after all, but they aren't exactly beyond argument.

Thirsty

PS. This is off topic here. So if you wish to debate further, then there is a thread called New Ideas to Chill Wort in the Brewing Equipment section. Thats where we should be having this discussion and where I will look for and make any further response.
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:40 am

You go Girl! This is disapointing that people are starting to use "facts" and "science" here, soon I may have to learn something
BUB
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bub
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Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:38 am

I used to use a nylon bag meself a looooong time ago (like 1981!) and found it worked great. Another idea I used was to take a chore boy (MSRP ~$1) and shove a nycore hose up its bottom (6 feet @ $0.25/ft for $1.50) and stick the remainder out of my ice chest drain hole. Laid the chore boy in the center, and mashed, batch sparged, and claimed 6.5 gallons of bright clear wort. Total cost was ~$2.50, and about 10 minutes of my time. I still have the 96 quart coleman cooler, but the chore boy bit the dust a long time ago, as did the quite yellow/brown nycore hose. Got 27.5pts/lb/gal with that system which I used up to 1996, when I upgraded to s/s. Just about everyone has a cooler of sufficient size, and chore boys are cheap and plentiful (just make sure to get the s/s ones as the copper ones may contain lead and/or mercury), as are nycore hoses. You really can't get much cheaper than either a bag, or a chore boy in a cooler.

Prost!

Michel
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zymurgest
 
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Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:44 am

Just a little update on my ongoing BIAB adventures... this time to report the truly staggering efficiencies I am currently getting.

Last 2 brews have been ----

A Trippel - wort gravity at 1.056 (i'll be adding sugar to the fermentor incrementally)

Efficiency into the Kettle @ 83%

This brew was also no-chilled and is still sitting unfermented after 3 weeks in the no-chill cubes at the back of my beer fridge.

An Oatmeal stout - OG at 1.051

Efficiency into the kettle @ 89%

Bubbling away nicely as I type


You do seem to get a bit more coldbreak than usual with normal sparging techniques, so perhaps a little of that efficiency is lost if you are trying to avoid any cold break into the fermentor. Bur still.... even taking that into account, i am getting 80% plus efficiencies without a sparge step.

Well, its impressing the crap outta me I have to say.

Anyone else out there having a go at the BIAB thing?? Those who are, how's it all going??

Thirsty
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Mon Aug 06, 2007 2:49 pm

I picked up material for the bag quite some time ago but hadn't gotten around to borrowing a sewing machine to actually construct the bag. Last week my mother gave me her old machine. Now I have to think of some other excuse to put it off. :lol:

Seriously though, a bunch of folks in our club will be doing brewing demonstrations at the Nebraska State Fair in a couple of weeks. My partner and I will be doing two separate 5 gallon batches. I think I may do the BIAB as one of the batches so we can see the same beer done two different ways. I will be sure to take pictures if we actually do this.

Wayne
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Bugeater
 
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Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:42 pm

This sounds like a pretty cool idea.
The ONLY (and I do mean ONLY) thing that may be a slight flaw is some mash-time HSA when you pull the bag out. On a normal batch, it's not a problem, as we usually drink the brew fast enough that it doesn't have time to form, but if it's a beer that needs to age, like a BW, then it could kick in and stale on you. Otherwise, this looks really interesting. I just might give it a try some time in the near future.
-B'Dawg
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BDawg
 
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Tue Aug 07, 2007 6:06 am

Been a tad flat out lately and didn't realise that there had been so many posts since my last visit. I'm sure Thirsty has answered any questions so I hope that all I have to look forward to is reading that all is going well.

It's certainly a nice way to brew.

Spot ya,
PP
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