Danno wrote:Okay, who has an autoclave and thus why is it so important to buy an autoclavable bottle if no one does?
Well, I'm sure hardly any homebrewers have a lab-grade autoclave lying around seeing as they are insanely expensive, but a lot of homebrewers do have pressure cookers. Essentially a pressure cooker acts as an autoclave, but isn't quite as sophisticated as the lab-grade ones.
Now, I was only pointing out to get the autoclavable kind because if JAWSFREE was planning on repitching by following Jamil's directions exactly, he would have to put the bottles in a pressure cooker and hit them with about 250 degrees. If one were to do this with something like an HDPE (high density polyethylene) bottle, it'd be right around its melting threshold of 260 degrees (if memory serves correctly). As such, the plastic would probably be all deformed and would be fairly weak.
The polypropylene bottle on the other hand can handle the 250 degrees and still keep its structural integrity intact.
If one was planning on sanitizing a bottle or hitting it with something like 212 degrees, then the HDPE bottle would work just fine. (To be honest, I don't even trust HDPE at 212 degrees due to the deformation to causes)., Just keep in mind that under both cases, you are only sanitizing, not sterilizing. But if you want to sterilize instead of sanitize, you have to have at least 250 degrees, because 212 actually only kills most, but not all of the bacteria present.
I hope this response made some sense, and maybe Jamil can chime in and give his input.