bhaas wrote:I am looking to filter out chlorine, bad taste and odors. My goal is to be able to use my city water profile just polished up without any of the negatives that might come along with it (chlorine etc...). Correct me if I am wrong but I think Foomench's suggested filter is probably the way to go?
Yes, activated carbon filter will remove chlorine and chloramine. In an interesting twist chloramine is removed without consuming any carbon thus, theoretically at least, you should never have to replace the filter. In the real world, of course, it doesn't work out that way.
biertourist wrote:I'm also looking at good water filter options for removing Chlorine in it's various forms (including Chloramine). -I thought that both RO and Charcoal Filtration would deal with chlorine...
Every RO system contains a carbon filter because chlorine and or chloramine will poison the membrane if not removed. It is, thus, the pre-filter that removes the chorine/chloramine and not the RO membrane itself.
biertourist wrote:RO IS a pretty sizable up-front cost, the filters are SUPER expensive, and it constantly wastes LOADS of water (they constantly run extra water back down your drain). RO water is a non-starter.
Modern technology has given the home brewer 2 huge gifts. These are inexpensive pH meters and inexpensive RO systems. We must allow that what is inexpensive to some is inexpensive to others but there is no question that the cost of both of these in constant dollars have come way down while the performance has gone way up. Equipped with these tools anyone can make very good beer without having to understand the ins and outs of water chemistry.
Again LOADS is a relative term. I run my RO system at about 33% recovery though it is capable of being run at 50%. The reason I run 33% is because I don't care about the wastewater and the lower recovery rate will, theoretically, prolong membrane life. Had I elected to install the recirculation option, which I would do if I were doing it over, the system could be run at 70% recovery. Now whether 30% or 66% waste is LOADS is entirely up to the individual to decide. Of course not all systems give the user control over the recovery rate but one way to improve recovery is to disconnect the pressure tank that comes with most systems and collect at atmospheric pressure e.g. directly into your HLT.
Neither fancier systems like mine nor the cheapies sold at Home Depot run concentrate (waste water) continuosly but only when collection of permeate is taking place. In systems like mine when the atmospheric tank is full the pressure pump is shut down and the feed water valve closed. In the cheapie systems the pressure in the pressure tank is sensed and when it reaches a level indicating the pressure tank is full it shuts of the feed water. Thus in neither case is there continuous flow.
Replacement cartridges are not AFAIK super epensive but then I've never replaced one. I had two of the inexpensive GE systems that I ran for at least 5 years without ever replacing the cartridges and then, when I went to the new system, gave to other brewers who are still using them AFAIK. That's doubtless because the brewing load is not nearly as heavy as a whole house or even in kitchen under sink load might be.
