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 Post subject: dry hopping
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:03 am
Posts: 14
hi

i brewed a double hop ipa last week getting ready to second fermentation
im gonna use 2oz of whole leaf hop

ill like to use gelatine to clear it up but will it be useless cuz of the dry hopping

and it a five gallon batch should i transfer it to a five gallon carboy or 6.5 gallon

and should i use muslin bag with whole leaf hop

thank you guys r the best

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 Post subject: Re: dry hopping
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 5:07 pm
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Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Secondary fermentations, when dry hopping, are easier in a plastic bucket. You're free to use a bag, but 2 oz of whole leaf is pushing the capacity of a standard mesh hop sock. In a plastic bucket, you might even be able to CO2-flush the headspace before putting the lid back on.

We dry hop in the primary, with whole leaf, no bag. It works for us.

You can really do whatever you want: Do it consistently, cleanly, and comfortably, and it should be good beer.

So, our advice is to dry hop in the primary (and not do secondary fermentations) unless you need the yeast.

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 Post subject: Re: dry hopping
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 5:41 am 
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+1. Add your dry hops to the primary (no muslin bag needed) when the airlock is still going around 6-8 bubbles a minute. Adding them at this time allows for any oxygen introduced into your beer fermenter to be scrubbed out from the residual fermentation still going on. Yes you will lose some dry hop aromatics so to counter this add a bit more than you normally would for your recipe.

If you have the ability to cold crash your fermenter, then let your dry hops go for about 5-7 days swirling your fermenter every other day to keep the dry hops in suspension. Before cold crashing switch your airlock to a single piece s-shaped airlock, fill it with a small amount of starsan and then cold crash for 3 days if possible. The s-shaped airlock will not allow any back suction of water from your airlock into your fermenter like a 3 piece one would (ask me how I know :lol: ).

The cold crashing will drop out your hops and allow you to rack off a clear IPA! Good luck!


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 Post subject: Re: dry hopping
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:03 am
Posts: 14
wat cold crush?

sorry im new to brewing
sorry if it a dumb question

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 Post subject: Re: dry hopping
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:08 pm
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Location: Dublin, CA
IMO - Pellet hops are easier to deal with in secondary whyle wet or leaf hops do just fine in primary.

Its really all personal prefrence and personall process. If you like you can use a hop bag, it makes it easier to remove and they make them in all sizes. I dry hop up to 4oz of pellet hops in mine and normally dont dry hop with more than 2oz leaf. Here is a bit of my process.

* 10- days Primary. This is just an average. I let the beer tell me when its done.
Let the yeast finish and clean up before you dry hop, you dont want to lose aroma when the airlock bubbles.
* FIRST Dry hop for 3-7 days
* Rack off Yeast to keg
* SECOND Dry hop for 3 days in keg (leaf hops - Normally a small amount. MAX 1/2oz)
* Cold crash for 24 hours with 2nd hops still in beer - I havent noticed much, if any difference in claritry beyond 24- hours of cold crashing.
* Keg 1/2 - Bottle 1/2

I always use whirlfloc in my boil and have Crystal clear IPA's without gelatine. If you dont have the ability to cold crash or keg your beer will still turn out great but may not be as clear.

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 Post subject: Re: dry hopping
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 7:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2011 5:08 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Dublin, CA
mexican brew wrote:
wat cold crush?

sorry im new to brewing
sorry if it a dumb question



Dropping the temperature of the beer to the 30's or 40's for 24 hours or more. The beer clears and the particles that make beer hazy will fall out.

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