Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:20 am
I use a Blichmann Therminator, which is obviously a type of CF chiller. I do my whirlpool with a large stainless spoon for 30 seconds to 1 minute after I cut the flame. I typically wait 15 minutes before "knocking out" to my fermenter. I use the same March brand pump that everyone else uses. I also have a diverter plate in my kettle, which helps tremendously. I'm sure you could get one of these welded in at your local welding shop for a nominal fee. My friend got his done for $20. I'm almost always able to leave behind a very dense trub pile. Pulling a little bit of hot break over is not an issue - larger amount are. I've never had any issues with hop debris getting pulled over. As a note, when I started doing water treatment about 4 years ago, I noticed a significant change in my hot break forming denser, more cohesive piles. I also never use bags for pellets in the boil kettle, even on double IPAs or other beers with a shitload of hops. Still, no issues there. The only time my trub piles aren't super great is when I'm doing high gravity dark beers, such as impy stouts or baltic porters. In those cases, the low pH of the wort tends to inhibit protein (hot break) coagulation.
Personally, I would advise against recirculating hot wort to sanitize your CF chiller. It sounds like an easy way to get hop debris stuck in there. Towards the end of my boil, I recirculate StarSan solution through my CF chiller and all "cold side" lines simultaneously. I'm very meticulous about cleaning my CF chiller immediately after brewing. That way I have a very clean chiller that I can bake in the oven for a few hours before my next brew day as an added level of sanitation. That always does the trick.
- Julian Shrago
Owner/Brewmaster
Beachwood BBQ & Brewing
Downtown Long Beach