question about size and shape of mash tun

[sufwrx]

ok, so i'm trying to build a mash tun using a converted cooler. i have heard a few times that a wide and shallow mash tun is better somehow ( i don't remember what reason was given). so would it be better to get a cooler like this one here (or one similar) rather than get the round 10gal coolers that are so popular. i'm pretty sure i could convert this so that i can sparge with it. thanks.

billy

[Nate Diggler]

That is exactly what I use... here is a buddy of mine's website that has the how-to that I followed.

http://brewing.lustreking.com/gear/mashtun.html

I added another piece of brass at the other end of the mesh to keep it cleaner looking and to weight it down, and I also used a longer piece of supply line (it runs all the way across the bottom).

[Bugeater]

In general, the shape of mash tun that works best depends on whether you are batch sparging or fly sparging. The shallower grain bed you get with a rectangular cooler favors the batch sparge. lessening the chance of a stuck sparge. The deep grain bed you get with the cylindrical drink cooler favors the fly sparge as it lessens the chance of channels forming in the mash bed, allowing water to bypass much of the grain. Because of the difference in process, channeling is not a problem with batch sparging.

Even though I am partial to batch sparging, neither method in necessarily "better" than the other. The method that works best for a particular brewer depends on the mash tun geometry, manifold design, and the way the individual brewer attempts to implement whichever process he/she chooses.

Wayne

[sufwrx]

well i went and bought one of these from walmart. i will be getting the conversion hardware later today and hopefully getting the conversion done tonight. wish me luck. thanks for the information. i'm looking forward to starting the all grain process.

billy

[ddgbrewing]

I'm concidering doing the same thing as the example above... currently using a 5 gal round cooler and fly sparging. I'm getting tired of being limited to the types and sizes of batches I'm able to do (want to make some big beers).

[Thirsty Boy]

Just to add a little to what Bug said - before you decide on your mash tun, you need to decide on the way you are going to sparge and whether you want to be ablet to step mash or not.

Lower and wider for batch - taller for fly... but, also size matters.

You can get away with a smaller mash tun if you are going to fly sparge, when you batch sparge, you need a bit more volume... if you are going to do a single batch.. then it needs to be even bigger.

Step mashing via infusions means a bigger tun as well, you need space fo rthe extra water.

5G is fine for fly sparging and no steps... but still limits you a bit for big beers. I have a 47L (nearly 12G) tub and that enables me to do a "single batch" sparge on pretty much any beer (5G batches) and lets me do 10G batches or BIG beers with a two run-off batch sparge. But I run a RIMS so I dont have to worry about infusions for steps.

So you kind of have to decide how you are going to brew before you buy teh mash tun.

Thirsty

[ddgbrewing]

Decisions decisions.... I like both concepts of sparging (currently fly sparging.) I want to eventually build a system with pumps and all that. With my current mash tun (5 gal round cooler with stainless bottom from B3) I'm having to vorlauf about a gallon to a gal 1/2 before it runs clear, from my understanding batch sparging with the stainless braided line requires less time to vorlauf as well as being quicker. When it comes to efficiency I've calculated mine to be between 65 and 70%. Will batch sparging increase the efficiency?

[Nate Diggler]

I've had about 35lbs. of grain in my 70qts... enough for two different 15g parti-gyles so far (Doppelbock/Oktoberfest/Munich Dunkel, and Imperial Stout/Oatmeal Stout/Sweet Stout), though I usually do 2X10g batches with them (I have 2 for mash tuns, one for a HLT).