Munich malt, as I understand it, has less diastatic power than 2-row, but still enough to convert the starches in some adjuncts. The caramel malts are already pretty converted, actually just about all the grains in your bill are what I'd call "steepable", with the exception of the aromatic malt.
What I do for my scotch ale is follow Skotrat's Traquair House Ale more-or-less with some modifications. The premise is to start with a lot of base malt, a tiny amount of roast barley (2oz in a 5 gal batch) and that's it. Take a gallon of your wort and boil it down to a cup, return to the regular wort, and do a 2-hour boil on the full wort. That adds a lot of caramelization the old-fashioned way. It's a fantastic beer, although I'm not sure how well it would respond to conversion to an extract recipe.
If you look at Fred Bonjour's
Kilt Lifter, you can see the grain bill for a very good strong scotch ale that uses more standard caramel malts instead of kettle caramelization. Full disclosure: I've not brewed this myself, but I've heard great things about it. The basic idea is that if you're going for a real malt rainbow, you should try to get some representation from multiple levels of roast in the bill- some crystal 20 for sweetness and some 80-120 for the more raisin/fig type of flavor, plus a bit in the midranges for, well, middle ground stuff between the two.
I've also been playing with smoked and peated malt (very different- peated malt adds a lot more phenolic character and tends to be REALLY strong, like 2-4 oz is fine, whereas you can make most of your grain bill be rauch malt), but I will say that there's a surprising amount of "smoke" in the base recipe without any smoked malt, just from the yeast. I've got a friend who really wants a super-smoky ale, so tomorrow when I re-brew this stuff, I'm going to 3.5 oz of peated malt (woah, I'm craaaazy, somebody stop me!) and some medium-toast oak cubes in the secondary. It'll take months to calm down, I think, but it's what he wants.