Got "permission/blessing" to go all grain!

[spiderwrangler]

I'm assuming you've thought about a chiller, but since it wasn't mentioned thus far, I thought I should. Moving from a partial to full boil is gonna be smoother if you've got a more efficient way of cooling stuff down on top of all the advice mentioned so far. As a side note, I work at the LHBS, and anytime a customer says they are going to do their first all grain, I ask them "What are you using as your lauter tun?". I don't really care what they use, just that they can answer the question. It's surprising the number of people I've saved $40 bucks in ingredients because they didn't bother to do any research on what is involved in all grain brewing.

[Adam]

Spiderwrangler, I'd like to get a chiller (the copper tube kind from MoreBeer) as well. Right now I do the icewater batch in the kitchen sink with partial boils and it cools quick enough. I get it cooling then clean and sanitize the fermentor and accessories, then I'm usually ready to pitch the yeast.

I have an empty 55 gallon drum from work that I'm going to use to catch the water runoff out of the chiller. I can save this and use it for my boil water or sparge water on my next and subsequent batches, so my "cooling" water will be my supply of water for the next brews. When I go to make the next batch, I can pump out the water I need from the drum and then do my mash and sparge with that water.

From what I gather about batch sparging the basic steps are:

-Add grain and ratio of mash water (like 1.5qt/lb of grain) and mash for 60 mins.
-Drain out the mash until it runs clear, then direct it to the boil kettle.
-Pour the initial runoff back into the mash tun and add sparge water, stir.
-Drain out the mash until it runs clear, then direct it to the boil kettle until the full volume of wort is achieved.
-Then conduct the boil.

Did I get the basic fundamental steps right? I left out the temperature details and such as that's recipe dependent, but just the steps is what I'm talking about.

First step is to buy and build my cooler mash tun.

[snowcapt]

-Pour the initial runoff back into the mash tun and add sparge water, stir.
-Drain out the mash until it runs clear, then direct it to the boil kettle until the full volume of wort is achieved.

Stir, Brotha, stir
I have been doing a batch/fly style. I use a stainless hose screen. I keep adding my sparge water a bit at a time. I then stop the flow and stir a couple more times. Depending on the grist, I may do this a few times. Ihave to recirculate a bit more, but my efficiency jumped when I started doing it.
Welcome to the world of brew projects!

[spiderwrangler]

Spiderwrangler, I'd like to get a chiller (the copper tube kind from MoreBeer) as well. Right now I do the icewater batch in the kitchen sink with partial boils and it cools quick enough. I get it cooling then clean and sanitize the fermentor and accessories, then I'm usually ready to pitch the yeast.

I have an empty 55 gallon drum from work that I'm going to use to catch the water runoff out of the chiller. I can save this and use it for my boil water or sparge water on my next and subsequent batches, so my "cooling" water will be my supply of water for the next brews. When I go to make the next batch, I can pump out the water I need from the drum and then do my mash and sparge with that water.

From what I gather about batch sparging the basic steps are:

-Add grain and ratio of mash water (like 1.5qt/lb of grain) and mash for 60 mins.
-Drain out the mash until it runs clear, then direct it to the boil kettle.
-Pour the initial runoff back into the mash tun and add sparge water, stir.
-Drain out the mash until it runs clear, then direct it to the boil kettle until the full volume of wort is achieved.
-Then conduct the boil.

Did I get the basic fundamental steps right? I left out the temperature details and such as that's recipe dependent, but just the steps is what I'm talking about.

First step is to buy and build my cooler mash tun.

Unless you are going to brew right away, I wouldn't recommend keeping water around for subsequent batches (as in days) as it's gonna get off...

As for the batch procedure, you want to recirc the wort (run it into a pitcher, pour back on top) until your wort is running clear, then send it into the boil kettle. Once your flow stops (when the liquid portion has been drained), add in the sparge water and stir. Recirc again to set your bed, and it's running clear, then drain off again.

[alan_marks]

I started doing batch sparge till I read up on how Gordon Strong does fly sparging, just take your sparge water and "float" it on top of the mash. I've been using a quart plastic measuring cup to do this while sparging with several inches of water above the grain bed (settled after recirculation) and for me it works like a champ! Easy and simple, just take a container of hot sparge water and lower it below the level of liquid in the mash tun and pour. I have about 8 inches of grain in the bottom of my mash tun and another 4 or 5 inches of water above that when I start adding my sparge water. Using Promash to help calculate my volumes of water for mashing and sparging and knowing what my pre boil gravity should be helps me hit my numbers just about every time!

hope this helps,
Alan

[Adam]

Unless you are going to brew right away, I wouldn't recommend keeping water around for subsequent batches (as in days) as it's gonna get off...

I just hate seeing that water wasted. I only live 7 miles from Lake Superior, but still.

As for the batch procedure, you want to recirc the wort (run it into a pitcher, pour back on top) until your wort is running clear, then send it into the boil kettle. Once your flow stops (when the liquid portion has been drained), add in the sparge water and stir. Recirc again to set your bed, and it's running clear, then drain off again.

OK, that clarifies things. Thanks so much!

[spiderwrangler]

I just hate seeing that water wasted. I only live 7 miles from Lake Superior, but still.

True... me too. If you don't have some mixed up from before starting your brew day, the first really hot water makes for good PBW water, or just for general cleaning afterwards. If you have the large barrel, run it in there, use it for cleanup and water plants with the rest.