Janet's Brown Ale?

[pdxhomebrew]

I was just wondering if i should make any recipe adjustments due to the yeast change. It's too late to reduce the c pils because all my grains are now mixed together, but I can still mash lower to help it dry out. Thanks!

[winvarin]

At flameout (0 minutes) I stir the wort with a brew spoon for 30 seconds and then I let it sit for 30 minutes. Then I pump (pull actually because the pump is on the cold side of the Therminator) the wort through the Hoprocket (upside down) filled with 4 ounces of whole hops placed in a hopsack. This takes about 15 minutes for 12 gallons. I use the Hoprocket (hopback) to filter the wort. I don't think it adds much aroma compared to dryhopping.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/530193_4128258440331_1287708584_n.jpg

Thank you. So if I understand it correctly you do both a 0 minute addition of Cascade that steeps for 30 minutes and then 4 ounces of Cascade in the Hoprocket?

That's correct.

I use a Jamil-style whirlpool immersion chiller. My usual process is to run my pump the last 10 min of the boil with the chiller in place to sanitize. I add knockout hops then immediately begin chilling while continuing to run the whirlpool. Once I hit my desired chill temp, I run the pump for another minute or 2, then shut it down and remove the chiller to let everything spin down while covered.

It's a new rig for me and I have not quite worked out a process for a true "hot" hop stand.

Would you recommend running my whirlpool for the 30 min with the beer near knockout temps before chilling? Or will I get sufficient contribution from the knockout hops during the 10 min or so it takes me to get below 150F?

Also, a general question to those of you out there who chill similarly. Do you chill covered or uncovered when using knockout hops? I usually leave it uncovered to promote quicker chilling. But I have recently been listening to back episodes of the Jamil Show and have heard Jamil advocate whirlpooling and chilling covered to keep more of the aroma compounds trapped inside the beer.

I'm guessing that with a 90 min boil, chilling covered is OK since you'll have driven off most if not all of the SMM/DMS present

[aggieactuary]

This might be a silly question, but are the "water adjustments" (Ca 110ppm, Mg 18ppm, etc.) the final parts-per or the amount you're adding to your water?

I assume it's the final amounts. I just want to be sure.

Thanks.

[animaldoc]

Would you recommend running my whirlpool for the 30 min with the beer near knockout temps before chilling?

Also, [........] Do you chill covered or uncovered when using knockout hops? \

That is exactly what I do ..... whirlpool covered after flameout for however long the recipe stated before I turn on the chiller. Usually 20 min or so. Then I turn the water for the chiller o. and in about 3 minutes I'm down below 140.

Covered chill. Don't want bugs or tree parts or grass seeds in my beer.

[TastyMcD]

This might be a silly question, but are the "water adjustments" (Ca 110ppm, Mg 18ppm, etc.) the final parts-per or the amount you're adding to your water?

I assume it's the final amounts. I just want to be sure.

Thanks.

The final ppm.

[breezybrew]

So I made this recipe as my most recent brew and followed the recipe. I was wondering what the body and the bitterness characteristics are like?

I used US-05 Yeast, two packets and am wondering if I over pitched. The mouthfeel seems a bit thin, the maltiness tastes a bit lifeless, and it has a long lasting bitterness characteristic. I am thinking there's something going on with my process, rather than the recipe.

It seems to be related to the Over Pitching after reading this article: http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pit ... x-results/ What I am trying to deduce is that if this is the cause or if it is something else. Here's my water profile:

Calcium (ppm) Magnesium (ppm) Sodium (ppm) Sulfate (ppm) Chloride (ppm) Bicarbonate (ppm)
Existing Water Profile 50 3 17 87 20 72
Finished Water Profile 64 3 17 87 46 34

Mash Parameters
Batch Volume (gal) 6.00 Hardness (ppm as CaCO3) 173 RA (ppm as CaCO3) -19
Estimated Mash pH 5.3 Alkalinity (ppm as CaCO3) 28 SO4/Cl Ratio 1.91

The other few causes I am thinking may be due to water composition, or sparge water characteristics. My mash was at 5.3 measured with a calibrated meter that's brand new. I have also read sparge water should be pH 6 or below and 170 or less (Gordon Strong Recommendations). I didn't take a pH reading of the sparge water, and I did use 180 degree water for the sparge, but once stirred in, it was about 167 degrees. Not really close to the 170 threshold. I also mashed at 1.8 qt/lb to ensure I wasn't over sparging. I also use Campden to treat my water for Chloramines (.5 tab per 5 gal).

Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

[pdxhomebrew]

Well, just want to report that this recipe turned out great. My changes were using a fresh pitch of WY1968 from a local brewery, and mashing a bit lower at ~152. I entered this beer into my homebrew club's Fall Classic (my first time entering a competition) and it won first place for American Ales!

I'm looking forward to brewing this again - with the exact recipe and then the imperial version too. Thanks Tasty!!!

[Ozwald]

So I made this recipe as my most recent brew and followed the recipe. I was wondering what the body and the bitterness characteristics are like?

I used US-05 Yeast, two packets and am wondering if I over pitched. The mouthfeel seems a bit thin, the maltiness tastes a bit lifeless, and it has a long lasting bitterness characteristic. I am thinking there's something going on with my process, rather than the recipe.

It seems to be related to the Over Pitching after reading this article: http://sciencebrewer.com/2012/03/02/pit ... x-results/ What I am trying to deduce is that if this is the cause or if it is something else. Here's my water profile:

Calcium (ppm) Magnesium (ppm) Sodium (ppm) Sulfate (ppm) Chloride (ppm) Bicarbonate (ppm)
Existing Water Profile 50 3 17 87 20 72
Finished Water Profile 64 3 17 87 46 34

Mash Parameters
Batch Volume (gal) 6.00 Hardness (ppm as CaCO3) 173 RA (ppm as CaCO3) -19
Estimated Mash pH 5.3 Alkalinity (ppm as CaCO3) 28 SO4/Cl Ratio 1.91

The other few causes I am thinking may be due to water composition, or sparge water characteristics. My mash was at 5.3 measured with a calibrated meter that's brand new. I have also read sparge water should be pH 6 or below and 170 or less (Gordon Strong Recommendations). I didn't take a pH reading of the sparge water, and I did use 180 degree water for the sparge, but once stirred in, it was about 167 degrees. Not really close to the 170 threshold. I also mashed at 1.8 qt/lb to ensure I wasn't over sparging. I also use Campden to treat my water for Chloramines (.5 tab per 5 gal).

Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?

I highly doubt you over pitched. You couldn't achieve the numbers in that article by accident.

Your water is way, way off. You're way low on calcium & sulfate, not to mention the sulfate/chloride ratio isn't even remotely close for this beer. I doubt that's the only issue at hand, but it's a pretty big one.