Electric Boil Kettle Element

[Kbar]

So, love the move from RIMS to HERMS. Will never look back. Next move, should I run an electric element on the boil kettle. Who does this and what are your results? Any scorched wort issues? I am gun shy given the batches I have lost on the old RIMS system. Yes, improper element on the RIMS system, but still gun shy. Thanks!

[codewritinfool]

Well, you probably know this already, but you want an ULWD element (Ultra Low Watt Density). I've never scorched wort with one, and as an added data point, Kal over at theelectricbrewery.com agrees.

If you decide to go that route, consider the stainless-base version of that element.

[mabrungard]

Agree. If using an ULWD element, there is little chance of scorching. However, you do need to clean the element periodically to avoid building up too much crud on the element. I have a friend who allowed a significant crud layer to build up without removal and he did have burnt flavor and aroma. If the element looks reasonably clean, its clean enough.

The other thing to incorporate is a way to adjust the element power. I originally had a pulse width modulator, but recently upgraded to an element controller from Auber http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444 It works even better!

[Kbar]

Thanks guys. Yes, I have the control system already, 50 Amp 3 element box with 3 pump controllers as well. Can run On/Off (Digital) or with feedback loop. I have read just make your temp setting 208F and you will not generate too much of a rolling boil. I am not controlling voltage but more so controlling On/Off time such as a PWM signal (poor man's current control). Need to modify kettle and away I go. Thanks for your feedback.

[NateBrews]

I just recently started using a Blichmann BoilCoil (3750W, 240V) and have been pretty happy with the results. I am using a TA4 controller and a 25A SSR to control the element while running closed loop (heating strike/sparge water), as well as a PWM knob to control the thing while boiling.

I've done 3 brews on it now (bitter, pale ale, and pilsner) and haven't noticed any noticeable buildup on the element, just a slight white haze that comes off with a bit of cleaning. I also accidentally dry fired it a couple times and it didn't seem to cause any problems.

The biggest calamity I had was when I was recirculating with a pump and left for 5 minutes. The level in the kettle dropped to below the top turn of the coil and the splashing wort coming out of the mash tun burned onto the element pretty bad (it was all black and crusty). I pumped out the rest of the wort into the tun and the coil cleaned right up with a scrubby and some bar keepers friend. So, the brew day wasn't lost.

[beltbuckle]

I would avoid a controller on your boil kettle. Find an element that is the right range and keep it on/off. I have two elements in mine, I think one is a 5kw and the other 3.something kw (these are in a 1/2 barrel sanke keggle). I use both to get it near a boil then the smaller one is perfect to maintain a nice rolling boil. My first iteration used a controller but maintaining a constant boil is not something PID controllers due well.

[Mylo]

Induction, baby....

http://www.amazon.com/6530-ProChef-3000 ... uction+220


That's where I'm going, next.


Mylo

[codewritinfool]

Induction, baby....

http://www.amazon.com/6530-ProChef-3000 ... uction+220

That's where I'm going, next.

Mylo

What a cool idea - does it work for stainless, though?