The Great Valve Debate?

[CRBrewHound]

Hey all,

I am currently in build of an entirely new electric system. The design is based on Kal's from The Electric Brewery. However, Have devaited from his in most aspects of control. However, the pot incorporation will be very similar.

The difference is I am not using BoilerMakers as they are so dang expensive. Which now leaves me the task of determining my own valve height for the output valves.

The BoilMakers have a fairly high valve, by looking at the pictures and extrapolating, they look to be between 2 1/2 and 3 inches above the bottom with a dip tube.

However, I am unsure of height placement for mine. The only advantage I can see in a higher valve is that it is easier to connect hosing to the quick disconnects and for opening and closing the valves, the down sides of having them higher is that they drive higher other components in the rig, such as false bottom, boil elements, HERMS coil, ect...

Was kind of looking for some advice from you all to see if I have missed anything in the PRO's/Con's of incorporation of the valves. Any thoughts?

[foomench]

I have keggles, and there the valve placement is dictated by how far you have to move above the curvature of the inside of the keg to get a good weld for fittings (or flat mount for weldless). I have a dip tube in my HLT that sucks out just about everything. For my BK I just tilt it when I'm about done draining. I'm trying to decide on a whirlpool/filter screen/dip tube approach.

Going all electric throws an interesting curve into the equation. My HLT has the heating element (small 1500W) centered on the bottom. The BK has a side mount heating element (large 240V thing). I wonder if it would make sense to put a drain valve in the bottom. It would be harder to reach, but could get you every last drop. Another disadvantage (I know from my HLT) is that you then have to sit the vessel on a stand all the time, or sit it upside down. You can't sit it on the ground with a valve poking out the bottom.