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 Post subject: Building a Jockey Box
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:52 pm 
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This should be a future Dr Scott's gadget corner.

I am building a Jockey box for various events that I am serving my brew at in the coming months. Since I am not made of money I was thinking of using copper for the coils inside the box. Anyone know what harm this could bring on the flavor of my beer? The contact time will be minimal but I dont want to be serving up MGD tasting penny beer.

HH

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:05 pm 
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Hey I got a question for ya what about using that poly line that they have in the hardware stores. If ya used that you could coil it around a corny and fill the corny with hot water to get it to stay coiled up. I know thermal transfer isn't going to be the best but cheap and no real off flavor problems either.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:24 pm 
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Not a bad idea. I have been looking at cold plates and I think that SS/ Copper coil is the way to go.

HH

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Anderson Valley Brewing Co. (Bahl hornin')

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" I am gunna guess this is an IPA. Its the same color as one and kinda tastes like one"
Dr Scott 8:10 pm Sunday Jan. 14th, 2007


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 4:03 am 
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This month's BYO has an article on doing the same thing with copper. Can't be all bad.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:08 am 
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Long post to answer several of the items in the thread

Copper should work fine for the jockey box. Contact time is minimal. I would suggest running VERY hot water through the coil before and after as a cleaning and surface stripping measure. May not initially make a lot of sense to strip off the oxidation of the copper, but think through it. If the surface is actively corroding yes, you may pick up some copper ions in solution as you dispense your beer (chances are it's in you home water supply too!), but that's far less noticeable than if the line has corroded (tarnished - as copper is wont to do) and you scrub off chunks of tarnish and copper oxide (which is not as soluble in water/beer). Idea being, reduce the effects of the copper flavor potential rather than trying to prevent it from corroding (tarnishing).

On the poly... you'd have to get some SERIOUS heat on that corny to keep that thing coiled after you take the heat off. The coils of poly (actually polyvinyl chloride - yes, it's still PVC) you buy at the hardware store are coiled as they're being dried/cooled. They may be later heat treated, but we're talking a heat treat of >100C under very special conditions (sometimes vacuum). I wouldn't try to replicate that process.

What I would suggest (that's easier anyway) is buy a couple good lengh coils at the hardware store and leave them coiled. Or recoil them and tie them up with twistie-ties or whatever. O.k. so you've reduced the surface area for heat transfer on the tubing, o.k. so PVC is not a great conductor of heat anyway (remember you make it colder by taking away heat - not adding cold - see the 3rd law of thermodynamics for further elaboration), but PVC is cheap. Really cheap. Lots cheaper than copper. Easier to work with. Let's say - for argument - that you were gonna use 6 feet of copper coil (probably on the low side, I'd use closer to 10 - the more tubing you use, the closer to the temperature of your cooling medium - ice - you'll get). Copper conducts heat better than PVC, so if we're going to use PVC let's doube the estimate - 12 feet. O.k. so let's leave it coiled or tied up (if you're really ambitious, re-coil it in a single layer instead of dual layers - you'll see what I mean when you buy it at the hardware store), we've reduced the surface are of the tubing by ~1/4 given all the touching it does in the coil. Let's add another 50% to our estimate - 18 feet.

Last time I checked at Lowe's Hardware 5/8in PVC tubing (1/2in ID) was 20ft for ~$3.75, same length in copper ~$8-10. Plus you don't have to worry about off flavors and the fittings are cheaper. In fact if you buy a cheap styrofoam cooler at Wal-mart you may have invented the world's first disposable jockey box. It's a good tip for a party if you've got a warm keg, it takes about 30 minutes to put together and you throw it away when you're done.

Anyway, just my $0.02

Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 11:31 am 
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Thanks for the replys, I am thinking of going with a 50' supply of 3/8" copper. I will be cutting it in half and making two 25' coils for the Jockey box. I think what I will do is strip it inside with vinegar then sanitize with sani-clean. I can gte the copper tubing for $40 which is better than the $100 for on coil of stainless stell tubing. I may take pics of the process for a "tutorial thread" once I get my shanks, etc in my B3 order.

HH

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Anderson Valley Brewing Co. (Bahl hornin')

Hell Freezes over show
" I am gunna guess this is an IPA. Its the same color as one and kinda tastes like one"
Dr Scott 8:10 pm Sunday Jan. 14th, 2007


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:21 pm 
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In case you are interested, here is a source for 50' of stainless steel tubing for $60. This is complete with fittings.

http://www.servu-online.com/subpages/pr ... 5&grp=4136

Wayne
Bugeater Brewing Company

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 7:52 pm 
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I used copper in my jockey box for quite a while. The only reason I switched was that I got a screaming deal on a pre made j-box on fleabay.

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