need help with parts connecting pump and jamil chiller

[straight cash homey]

I want to get a wort chiller with a jamil whirlpool arm, a march pump and a 15 gallon kettle with ball valve from morebeer. But what other parts do I need to connect the kettle to the pump to the chiller? I want this to work right out of the box so I don't have to go to home depot after I get it all set up for a barb or something stupid. I have no problem spending money on SS quick disconnects if they will make life easier. after I had to sell all my gear, I got a job so I'm starting over and buying new equipment. thanks for any advice.

[Charlie]

I wasn't aware of this equipment, so I searched and found;

http://www.mrmalty.com/chiller.php

One thing bothered me;

Q: Doesn't a plate chiller like the Therminator or a counter flow chiller chill faster?

A: No. A good sized immersion chiller has as much surface area as the best of those other chillers. For example, the surface area on the immersion chiller I use has more surface area than the Therminator. The math is simple, the more surface area in contact with the wort, the faster you can transfer heat. It doesn't matter that you're flowing a little bit of wort through the counter flow or plate chiller at a time. In fact, that is less efficient, as the wort eventually reaches the temp of the chilling source (the tap water) and it no longer chills the wort or has any effect at all. In the whirlpool method, you're constantly exchanging cooled wort for hot wort across the entire chiller surface.

Far be it from me to tweak the nose of a brew god, but this is a bit of a simplification.

When constructing an immersion chiller you want to maximize its surface area (that's what's in contact with the hot wort), but when you build a CFC you want to maximize the surface area to volume ratio of the tubing carrying the wort. Surface area:volume ratio proceeds as the inverse of the tubing diameter, such that 1/4" tubing has twice the surface area:volume ratio of 1/2" tubing.

If the sky's the limit you can jacket your BK and cool with liquid nitrogen, but you must tune the surface area, volume, flow path and flow rates to get the temp you want in the time you require it.

In the case of the CFC, your boiling wort goes from 212 to ambient in seconds, while your IC drops the temp of the whole batch slowly. I favor using a CFC and running its output through an IC. If you want to whirlpool through the CFC then so much the better. You do need a 3-way valve (expensive) on the output side of the CFC. In the case of my home built CFC, at 2.5 GPM the 17 C inlet water was 24 C on the output side (wort temp 19.5 C). 24 C water still has plenty of cooling power.

There are many ways to skin this cat, but one thing I don't like about the IC is that it looks awkward. If/when I build one I'll plumb it into fittings through the sidewall of the BK so I can put the lid on and don't have to deal with crud sticking out the top. And I don't like the copper "S" fitting in the middle. You can do the same thing with less stuff by putting a stainless elbow down low on the BK.

Charlie

[Chris_J]

I want to get a wort chiller with a jamil whirlpool arm, a march pump and a 15 gallon kettle with ball valve from morebeer. But what other parts do I need to connect the kettle to the pump to the chiller? I want this to work right out of the box so I don't have to go to home depot after I get it all set up for a barb or something stupid. I have no problem spending money on SS quick disconnects if they will make life easier. after I had to sell all my gear, I got a job so I'm starting over and buying new equipment. thanks for any advice.

You're gonna want some high temp silicone tubing that b3 carries. Some kind of quick disconnect (be it plastic, brass, or SS) and then you're going to have to decide how to connect the tubing to the disconnects. The only ones I could find were made for garden hoses so I had to attach the hose to a barb-to-hose fitting then screw that onto the disconnect. You'll probably want a ball valve for your pump as well.

[Henning1966]

2 of these http://morebeer.com/view_product/17422/ ... _2%22_Barb
and 1 of these http://morebeer.com/view_product/17421/ ... _2%22_Barb
and about 12 ft of this http://morebeer.com/view_product/17608/ ... y_the_Foot

Thats the cheap way

now if you want to go all out with dis connects get two sets of these to add to the list above http://morebeer.com/view_product/9138/1 ... Set_-_Barb

[fastdogbrewing]

The SS QDs are quite expensive, but you only have to buy them once. I have a bunch of them on my setup, and I LOVE THEM. I wouldn't have it any other way.

[straight cash homey]

here's what I was thinking, this set up allows me to disconnect from the kettle out, but not the pump in (assuming I clamp down on everything that is barbed).
I can also disconnect from the pump out after the ball valve, but not from the chiller in.
does anyone see why I would need to disconnect from the pump in, or any other problems or ways to make this better.
thanks

[triple-oh-six]

That looks good to me, I use one pump (for now) and leave the "pump in" hose attached throughout the brew.
I only move the wort out from my mash tun to the HLT water out. Then to the wort out of the kettle to recirc.
Both hoses stay attached to the pump the whole brewday in my set up.

I've got a buzz though, I might be missing something.

[Mylo]

here's what I was thinking, this set up allows me to disconnect from the kettle out, but not the pump in (assuming I clamp down on everything that is barbed).
I can also disconnect from the pump out after the ball valve, but not from the chiller in.
does anyone see why I would need to disconnect from the pump in, or any other problems or ways to make this better.
thanks

That will work fine - but in my opinion - you don't want to permanently connect hoses to any equipment - be it a pump or a chiller. Get two extra disconnects and you are good to go.

There are (at least) two immediate benefits. 1) you can disconnect your pump, and still have a sanitized hose already connected to gravity feed to your carboy, or 2) you can disconnect your JZ chiller and have a hose (and pump) already connected to pump up to your fermenter. Plus, it's easier to clean that way.

Maybe it's just me, but I have never liked the "non linear" QD setups (ie. female ends on all hoses, male ends on everything else). I prefer that every hose has a male and a female - that way I can always string them together for any purpose (without using an adapter).

Oh, and BTW - the stainless QD's from B3 are f-ing awesome. I even saw a few on Denise's equipment at Moylan's.


Mylo