Controlling a Heating Element

[yellowcolumbia]

OK that makes more sense now. I thought for sure that those things would have a some sort of rheostat on them or something.

In that case, a PID type controller will work well for you. You will need a SSR that can handle the wattage of your element. It even has an "auto tuning" mode so that the PID params can be tuned for the response of the system.

Here is a cool one I found that is cheaper than the Love controllers:

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=14

The added benefit (besides the cheaper price) is that you can use these BAD ASS probes that have a bayonet connector on them - so the probe stays in your kettle, and you can disconnect the wire for cleaning, etc.

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=96

Mylo

The unit I plan on going with is the same one that was used by Carl on the HLT build on Wort-O-Matic, linked earlier in the thread.
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
That controller will do *fuzzy* pid, on/off, and manual. Manual will be very handy for the boil kettle, much like the reostat on Baltobrewer's stand. 100% power until a boil is reached, and then throttle it back to 70% or whatever to maintain the boil.

[Mylo]

That one will also work with the BAD ASS probes....

(hehe... I said ass probes)


Mylo

[Brew Engineer]

That one will also work with the BAD ASS probes....

(hehe... I said ass probes)


Mylo

There's no such thing as a bad ass probe... er, wait a minute...


nevermind...

[foomench]

The added benefit (besides the cheaper price) is that you can use these BAD ASS probes that have a bayonet connector on them - so the probe stays in your kettle, and you can disconnect the wire for cleaning, etc.

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=96

But that probe is only 2". I was going to get probes from
http://www.omega.com/config/probeconfig.html
But I really don't know if I need a grounded or ungrounded junction, etc. I know my PID came with a type K probe. Do I have to get type K calibration then, or can I go with something else? Does the PID care?
-Eric

[Mylo]

The added benefit (besides the cheaper price) is that you can use these BAD ASS probes that have a bayonet connector on them - so the probe stays in your kettle, and you can disconnect the wire for cleaning, etc.

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=96

But that probe is only 2". I was going to get probes from
http://www.omega.com/config/probeconfig.html
But I really don't know if I need a grounded or ungrounded junction, etc. I know my PID came with a type K probe. Do I have to get type K calibration then, or can I go with something else? Does the PID care?
-Eric

They also have a 4" one, that I was going to use for my mash tun. The problem is that I will have to figure out a weldless setup - and I have to acquire a metric stainless nut. Henning already helped with the latter.

and yes, you do have to tell the PID what type of probe you are using. The Auberins one has a setting for many of them, including the K's.


Mylo

[dresselbrew]

Like Mylo said, all you have to do is tell your PID what type of thermocouple you are using. If you find a different type of thermocouple it's fine as long as you tell the PID what type it is. I use type J because they were easy for me to find at the time. Type K seems to be more common though. I think most thermocouple probes are ungrounded.