Mike, I think that is my pale white ugly hand you're looking at - yup! and that looks like my old float switch set up too! This is where I got my wiring diagram from
http://www.texanbrew.com/article.php?st ... 3202555383
thanks you crazy whacky texans!
Here's my parts list for the complete package: I bought that float switch off of McMaster for around $15 or less. It is high temperature polysulfone. The switch is simply a pole with a sliding cylindrical encased magnet float. When the float is up, the switch is on, when it's down it's off. (You can also remove the cotter pin at the top of the float to invert the magnetic cylinder so that the switch direction is inverted as I've recently found out!) I bought a radio shack 15 volt AC/DC adapter plug recharger thingy (looks a lot like your cell phone recharger plug) for about $20. And I bought a solid state relay off of EBAY from somewhere in Florida that paralells 120V AC with 12-20V DC. From radio shack I also bought instead of that phono jack you see on the texanbrewer website, I bought RCA male and females to allow the disconnection of the float switch wire. And I also use a ON-OFF-On 3way toggle switch I bought from Home Depot. And I bought a bunch of heat shrink tubing from Harbor freight.
I use this setup on my brutus. Basicly I have one of my pumps hardwired to the "ON"-Off-On on the toggle. When in this position it turns the pump on. The float switch is hardwired to the On-Off-"ON" position via the texan brewer website. By using the SSR you are not running a dangerous 120V into a pot of liquid, instead you are just using 12-15 volts DC.
You might want to think about which pump you control with your float switch if you use 2 pumps (one for pumping sparge from your HLT to MT and one for pumping out wort from your MT to BK) You can have the float switch control the introduction of sparge water into the MT in a oscillating on, off, on, off... by controling one pump as the sparge constantly drains out of the MT into the BK. OR you can invert the magnet cylinder float on the switch and have it control the other pump so that you are constantly filling the MT with a steady flow from the BK while oscillating the drain pump between the MT and the BK. I prefer the latter, but both have different drawbacks.
Also, if you look, SS sheet metal has a 1/2" hole drilled through it. it slides down the copper tubing. All my lines are silicone lines from B3, and I use a slice of that line on either side of the SS sheet to support the sheet. It works really well. Umm you'll also see my attempt at a thermowell made from a scrap piece of SS tubing. I scrapped that idea.
Good luck! Let me know if you can make any improvements to this!!