Blichmann Top Tier: Reviews, Pics, Tips, etc.

[elsinore]

Yup, I did that before asking on here and he got back to me within 10 minutes. He's sending out another regulator right away. Hopefully that was the problem!

[ninetoedbrewing]

Couldn't take a picture during today's brew session, but here is a shot from a previous brew:

Have you had any problems keeping your burners lit? It doesn't matter what I try, the flame goes out. I'm not even trying to run it through a gas manifold yet, just straight from the regulator to the burner. At first I thought it was because they sent me the Natural Gas needle valve by mistake, but yours is the first picture I could find where it also included a needle valve. So frustrating.

Elsinore: I have not had problems keeping them lit (in fact, they do much better in wind than my banjo burner), but I have had "fun" when turning the gas off. I am used to the normal poof when turning the flame off, but mine are violent when deprived of gas. I don't use the needle valve for much other than minor tweaking. Most of my adjustments are at the regulator.

[elsinore]

My burner could be blown out, even while nice and blue. I contacted blichmann and they thought it was a regulator problem(as did i-the propane tank would pulse gas after awhile), so they sent me a new regulator the same day. I get it tomorrow. I can't imagine what else the problem could be at this point.

[bobjohnson]

Couldn't take a picture during today's brew session, but here is a shot from a previous brew:

Have you had any problems keeping your burners lit? It doesn't matter what I try, the flame goes out. I'm not even trying to run it through a gas manifold yet, just straight from the regulator to the burner. At first I thought it was because they sent me the Natural Gas needle valve by mistake, but yours is the first picture I could find where it also included a needle valve. So frustrating.

Elsinore: I have not had problems keeping them lit (in fact, they do much better in wind than my banjo burner), but I have had "fun" when turning the gas off. I am used to the normal poof when turning the flame off, but mine are violent when deprived of gas. I don't use the needle valve for much other than minor tweaking. Most of my adjustments are at the regulator.

For those having sucess with these burners, can you tell me where you have the regulator set? Are you opening it all the way and backing it off a little or is it more of opening it a little from closed? I think the statement Blichman has for the burners that says something like "doesn't need to be opened all the way" has me backing it off to much. I've used it 2x's and have had long times (30 to 40 minutes) to bring 7 gals to boil from 150'ish degrees. When I crack it up close to full open, I notice alot of heat coming up the sides of my keggle. I am afraid at that level, I am wasting propane. When I back it off though, it takes the long time. I don't think I have a regulator problem, but just trying to see how everyone else is running their burners in general.

[Ozwald]

I imagine kettles and a control panel and pump attached to the t-slots.

I imagine saving a couple hundred bucks and building my own that's customized to my brewing style.

Just sayin'

Yes you can. My company makes similar equipment. I am in a dilemma now. I quoted out the Blichmann system with my division and found myself at MUCH lower a cost than BM for all the goods even after I paid the transfer cost to my division. I am wondering if I should be a competitor to them or not. I can also offer casters vs. fixed legs, and you can use your own burners not buy their $134 burner. More to come!

That's cool & I wish you luck! I know not everyone has that geeky 'I-gotta-design-and-build-something-now' bug or even the time to execute it. I make time. I can't see myself *ever* buying a system/sculpture just because a large part of the hobby for me is just that. I guess I just get off on building stuff.

I was building a beergun clone, but I think I'm just going to buy one for now and put the build project off for later (believe me, I'll get back to it just for the challenge). In a few days I'm going to add a thread with photos from my latest project that's almost fully functional: rCUNTS. Re-Circulating Underwater Normalizing Thermination System. Yeah, it took a few beers to come up with that one. So... just wait til you see rCUNTS.

[andy77]

So I got my Top Tier today. The instructions require a torque wrench to attach the shelves and legs. Don't have one, nor do my neighbors. Not sure I want to buy one. What did you guys use for this step?

[bobjohnson]

I bought one from Sears for $25. Not a bad price and its a good tool to have. You can get one from Harbor Freight also for around $ 20. But, for me, Sears is down the street from my office, so it made it easy and it has that lifetime warrenty deal also. I could have built the stand with out this tool, but I figured better safe than sorry. 20 foot pounds is not alot of torque, so it would be easy to over tighten if you do it with a regular wrench.


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?vName=Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools&blockNo=12&blockType=G12&prdNo=12

[andy77]

I bought one from Sears for $25. Not a bad price and its a good tool to have. You can get one from Harbor Freight also for around $ 20. But, for me, Sears is down the street from my office, so it made it easy and it has that lifetime warrenty deal also. I could have built the stand with out this tool, but I figured better safe than sorry. 20 foot pounds is not alot of torque, so it would be easy to over tighten if you do it with a regular wrench.


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?vName=Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools&blockNo=12&blockType=G12&prdNo=12

Thank you. I hit Google and saw them averaging 75.