What heating element for my electric brew kettle?

[foomench]

Thirsty, I have something like that for my HLT, but for my BK I will need more, as I do 10+ gallon batches. But that is interesting. Where did you find that? The thing for my HLT is a bucket heater available at farm and ranch supply type places.

I like the idea of a controller to handle different size batches and controlling the boil by just turning a dial. I'm not so big on unplugging 240V things while they are running. But I will consider your suggestions, in particular in the short term. As we've found out, these controllers aren't cheap. Given a controller, it could also be automated, but I'm not sure how well a PID can control the boil.

I hadn't thought about insulating the BK. My current HLT is insulated, and I was going to Armaflex (or equivalent) my next one. But I chill in my BK as well with an immersion chiller. I'll have to think about that. I could make the insulation easily removable.

[foomench]

Variable voltage control 240 volts, 30 amps.

I used 30 amps because that should cover an element size to over 6000 watts with 5 amps to spare (assuming that's really enough amperage to spare - I may have to throw that out there to one of us who does electricity for a living).

I found this but it is expensive. http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Produc ... =18D-2-30I

I think it is time to start watching eBay. Here's an Omega controller for $140, 60A! And here is something for $50, but only 10A. Neither comes with the pot control circuit, but that should be cheap to make. I also saw a Control Concepts 20A model for $100. These guys have new 30A models for $156 and $166, again no control circuit.

I was reading the documentation for one of these (probably the Omega), and if there were multiple control inputs, one would override the other. That offers some interesting possibilities of mixing a PID control with a manual override.

[Thirsty Boy]

Thirsty, I have something like that for my HLT, but for my BK I will need more, as I do 10+ gallon batches. But that is interesting. Where did you find that? The thing for my HLT is a bucket heater available at farm and ranch supply type places.

I like the idea of a controller to handle different size batches and controlling the boil by just turning a dial. I'm not so big on unplugging 240V things while they are running. But I will consider your suggestions, in particular in the short term. As we've found out, these controllers aren't cheap. Given a controller, it could also be automated, but I'm not sure how well a PID can control the boil.

I hadn't thought about insulating the BK. My current HLT is insulated, and I was going to Armaflex (or equivalent) my next one. But I chill in my BK as well with an immersion chiller. I'll have to think about that. I could make the insulation easily removable.

I'm not sure about the + .. but having used these things a few times, I am positive that a single 2400W element would be sufficient for a 10G batch in an insulated kettle.

You plug them into a switched outlet ... then turning them on and off is a bit easier.

PIDs essentially cant control a boil - boiling is boiling to a PID. It has no idea how "hard" the boil is. You can build a controller using (pretty much) a rheostat and a certain type of SSR - instead of a unit like a PID telling the SSR what to do, you do it via the rheostat. But its not automatic, you have to eyeball things.

That unit pictured is from an Australian HB shop, but I'm sure you can get one over there is you look around.

TB

[BillfromOB]

Thirsty,

I look at that and the hairs on the back of my neck stand up ( and not in a good way ). That takes balls to grab that device shove it into a kettle of water and plug it in. I want to be able to turn on a switch without handling anything in direct contact with water with electricity running through it.

Ya I know I can hear JP in the background

Cheers,

Bill

[raven19]

I also use a similar 2400W immersion element (my Grandpa used to own)... its many years old.

Still works a treat with no issues for me.

It is no different to a mounted element in a kettle, this version is just a lot more portable, and can been used as a booster in your HLT or Kettle. Thats how I use mine.

No more dangerous that a normal electric element.

[Thirsty Boy]

Thirsty,

I look at that and the hairs on the back of my neck stand up ( and not in a good way ). That takes balls to grab that device shove it into a kettle of water and plug it in. I want to be able to turn on a switch without handling anything in direct contact with water with electricity running through it.

Ya I know I can hear JP in the background

Cheers,

Bill

Yeah - I get that, and they make a nasty bang if you are silly enough to turn them on when they aren't under water too. But think about this ... they also don't need a hole drilled in the pot, which needs to be sealed with a gasket, that might leak water all over the exposed end of your installed element. Nor do they rely on anybody's possibly questionable ability to wire 240V electricity circuits in a manner that wont kill anyone.

TB

[foomench]

Yeah - I get that, and they make a nasty bang if you are silly enough to turn them on when they aren't under water too. But think about this ... they also don't need a hole drilled in the pot, which needs to be sealed with a gasket, that might leak water all over the exposed end of your installed element. Nor do they rely on anybody's possibly questionable ability to wire 240V electricity circuits in a manner that wont kill anyone.

My bucket heater supposedly won't run if it is dry. I haven't tested this, but that's what it claims. In my old HLT, I sealed the end of the water heater element with alumilite after I wired it up. That way even if there was a leak, the connections couldn't be shorted out.

[CodeRage]

Honestly, I believe the fear of wart scorching is over rated. I run a 4500 Watt ULD element in my BK and it has plenty of umph to get the kettle to a rolling boil. I wouldn't suggest anything less though unless you know you are never going to move on from 5 gal batches.
I would imagine if there was scorching there would be evidence of carmalization on the element and I haven't seen any. My beer certainly doesn't taste burnt either.
If it is a matter of controlling your boil off rate, an auber PID controller with SSR allows you to set a 0-100% duty cycle output manually. I havent seen this feature in other PID controllers in the same price range. Ought to set you back around $80 bucks. It's what I use and I like it.

you cant get a stainless jam nut and silicone gasket from bargainfittings.com to mount it through the wall of your boil kettle.

It's hard to screw up the wiring. You'll either get 120 across the element or 240 Protect the terminals some how and...
The most important thing is to make sure you bond the ground to the kettle some how. This way if voltage does leak it will pop the breaker and not be sneaky waiting for you to grab it. GFCI breaker is good insurance but I don't think they are as necessary as some people preach. Think about, an electric range top has the element in direct contact with metal pots and are subject to boil overs and what not, they aren't on GFCIs. I'll say it again, GROUND THE KETTLE