You still need to reduce the motor speed from 1750 rpm to 200 rpm. Are you also using a gear reduction in your direct drive? Or do you have a slow motor already for direct drive?
I just received my motor from surplus center and inside they had a flyer with 7.5:1 gear reducer. This would take 1750 down to 233 rpm. The shaft size is wrong (my motor has a 1/2" shaft and this one is 5/8" to the motor) but that is the general idea?
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp? ... em=13-1451Or maybe a 10:1?
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp? ... R&catname=Would you mount something like this on the motor and then use the spider couplings to connect to the mill and motor?
The possible advantage to this is that you could center your mill on a countertop not having to allow for the 10" pulley as well as not having to construct a pulley guard.
I ordered the parts to do the BYO article already - but now am interested to see how a gear reducer may work as well. I might have to build both and see what is better.
one thing I needed to purchase that was not in the article was a bushing reducer
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/115/1029/=39hyn3As the ID of my 10" sheeve (pulley) is 1/2" and the mill shaft on the barley crusher is only 3/8".
I also needed to tap the sheeve and clean up the threads so the set screw could go in far enough to catch on the 3/8" mill shaft.
On a side note - my barley crusher came with an o-ring around one of the knurled mill pieces, but when I go to the BC website it is not shown there. This was getting pretty chewed up - is this o-ring required to drive the second mill shaft, or is it a spacer that is just sent to prevent shipping damage? I took the thing out today as it was almost torn through completely and notice that only one of the mill shafts is moving. As the grain passes through I imagine that would have the other one spin as well?
