Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Thu Nov 25, 2010 1:59 pm

Cliff wrote:spiderwrangler wants to know If I'm chilling quickly:
Yipper Skipper I have a 50 foot immersion chiller that runs on 50 degree water. My ground water is beastly cold.
I use WhirFloc in the last few minutes of the boil.

Spider & BDawg talk about cold crashing:
I don't keg. I bottle condition. I don't have a fridge to do cold crashing in anyway. So that's out.

ThirstyBoy likes Isinglass:
I understand that it's the gold standard for pulling tough yeasts out of suspension.
But I've also read that it's not the Shizz for protein.
Protein causes chill haze by virtue of globulation (my term), by which the proteins attract other proteins and eventually develop sufficient size to cause a visible cloud in the beer.
Have I been misinformed about Isinglass?

If I have read the correct material about PolyClar ( it was on the interWebs so one never knows) It works by being positively charges and causing the negatively charged polyphenols and proteins to become attached to it. Then it's heavier than beer so it then drags the proteins down into the cake (flocculates 'em). Also that PolyClar must be separated from the beer before bottling by racking it off or else it can cause excessive nucleation because the physical structure of the little plastic bits tends to encourage the CO2 to come out of solution.



Polyclar - or PVPP which is the actual compound rather than the trade name. Adsorbs polyphenols onto its surface and removes them from solution. This prevents them from forming complexes with protein molecules - It is polyphenol/protien complexes that make up chill haze. Its NOT about sinking anything to the bottom of the vessel, its about taking out of the equation, one of the necessary ingredients needed for chill haze to form. Thus PVPP is NOT a finings agent, it does NOT cause anything to precipitate nor cause anything to sink, or even to sink more quickly. It is a process aid which prevents the formation of chill haze in the first place.

Isinglass on the other hand IS a finings agent - it works by making things stick together into bigger lumps, which then fall to the bottom of your vessel more quickly. It is the gold standard for yeast .. and it is one of the only finings agent which also works to remove chill haze. It does this because in solution, isinglass's molecules are very very long and spindly. They are primarily positively charged - this attracts negatively charged yeast and does the same thing as gelatin, making the yeast stick into bigger lumps - which fall to the botom. BUT, because isinglass's molecules are long and complex - there are also areas of negative charge on some side chains. These areas help to attract the positively charged protein/polyphenol complexes which are chill haze. The chill haze is dragged into the same lump as the yeast and isinglass... and falls to the bottom. So - thats why your beer needs to be cold if you want your isinglass to work on removing chill haze - the chill haze needs to have formed for it to be removed in the manner that Isinglass removes it.

Isinglass is NOT as good as things like PVPP, Silica Gel, Papain, Brewers Clarex etc at proofing against chill haze. But it IS the best of the normal finings agents at it. Gelatin does virtually nothing to chill haze, and all these new fangled vegetarian friendly finings agents... well, they might say they work on chill haze. But they aren't what you use if you are looking for an effective solution - they are what you use if you are not able to use isinglass because you need to make beer that vegans can drink without having an apoplexy.

And NONE of these things do a damn thing that you cant do nearly as well - by leaving your beer at 0°C for a month or so and racking the nice clear beer off the top of the crud. So ALL of them are about saving time and/or money - not about effectiveness or simplicity.
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Thu Dec 02, 2010 4:43 pm

bottled yesterday. The polyclar fined beer ran brilliantly clear. I gave it like two weeks to settle out and the cake at the bottom was like concrete.

Of course the real test is when it's cold. But it was awful purdy.
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Sun Dec 05, 2010 7:46 pm

So how well does Polyclar work?
This is a Marris Otter base grain beer that almost always has haze
I dosed it with two OZ polyclar and waited two weeks. Then racked off the cake and re-pitched yeast and looky mamma ~!! My beer is brilliant~!!

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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:02 pm

I made two changes to my techniques to make absolutely clear beer - Counter flow Chiller with 3 minute cooling times to 60F, and Irish Moss in the last 10 minutes of the boil.

my observations......
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:06 pm

This is how well I liked Polyclar (Divergan)
Image

At the price I paid for the 1 Kilo quantity, (with shipping) I'm paying less than a quarter to fine a batch of beer.

I think this stuff outperforms every other fining agent I've seen or read about . Ease of use, Cheap cheap cheap, totality of things it''ll precipitate out of solution, near permanent shelf life. It's like I found a new girlfriend and she's way hotter than the old one.
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:00 am

From what I've been reading everyone has different ideas on how to use polyclar and there seems to be a few misconceptions, one of which is that you should chill your beer before adding it.

I can't see any reason to chill since as Thirsty mentioned, it prevents chill haze rather than removing it. I've read on some pro brewer forums that it can be added in the boil kettle.

I'm guessing that you did not chill either Cliff??? Sounds like you just added to secondary and let everything settle out which would accomplish the same thing as adding and filtering (it would just take longer)
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:21 am

Gibbon wrote:From what I've been reading everyone has different ideas on how to use polyclar and there seems to be a few misconceptions, one of which is that you should chill your beer before adding it.


The Tech sheets say to use de-gassed water ( boiled works) and to stir it in and give it a few days to do its thing.
I don't recall anything about a temperature regime

I'm guessing that you did not chill either Cliff??? Sounds like you just added to secondary and let everything settle out which would accomplish the same thing as adding and filtering (it would just take longer)


Yah. I haven't got a facility to get my beer cold like that.
I have a refrigerator build planned, but I haven't started the actual design or construction yet.
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Re: Chill Haze - -again and again and again oh my~!!

Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:52 am

I use Whirlfloc, and i works GREAT. I am still cooling in the tub. I fill it with snow and stir, stir, stir.
I am an all-grainer, and since I started using it, my batches are turning out nice and clear.
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