First Mead suggestions?
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:43 am
by Bugeater
After having brewed 1,000+ gallons of beer over the years I figure it's time for me to do my first mead.
I was just given 10# of filtered clover honey (about 3 quarts or so). I think I want to do something along the lines of a basic sweet mead but don't know where to start.
I have an RO filter here so water shouldn't be any problem (no chlorine or chloramines even pre filter). What nutrients should I use (I have the Wyeast yeast nutrient I use for beer)? Do I need some sort of acid addition? What yeast should I use?
Any help for making my batch of Bugeater Bug Spit would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Wayne
Bugeater Brewing Company
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:44 am
by yabodie
Bugs Bee Vomit mead...
For a 3 gallon batch
10#s honey
2.5 gallons unfiltered raw apple juice
5grams K1V1116
5grams Go-Ferm
.5lbs raisin unsulfured and pureed
water to 3 gallons total
Add go-ferm to 50ml 100F water. Mix till non clumpy and mix yeast into go-ferm and water let sit for 10 minutes, stir then let sit for another 10 minutes.
While yeast is re-hydrating mix honey and raisin puree with juice and mix with a Mixstir or lees stirrer till nice a aerated. Add water to adjust to an OG of 1.150.
Pitch yeast and let it sit till done fermenting. After fermentation is complete rack off lees and let sit till you can read newspaper print through the mead.
Rack into a keg and serve cold and carbonated...
The raisins will add enough nutrients for the yeast so you should not have to worry about adding nutrients.
However, if you are really concerned, then add 6.25g Fermaid-K at 1/3 and 2/3rd sugar break to help the fermentation along.
Prost!
Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:08 am
by rhino777
10# is a bit light. I'd say 12# minimum. I've had good luck with Wyeast's sweet mead yeast. Don't bother boiling. Make sure you use some acid blend and yeast nutrient.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:03 am
by Cosmic Charlie
I agree with the honey/water ratio suggestions. I'd shoot for an OG of at least 1.100. When I add blueberries, I don't need any nutrients. I've had success with every mead yeast I've tried except the Sherry yeast. I think D47 is a good bet, although it might finish drier than what you are looking for. Be sure to let your mead age. If you're like me, mead will become a regular in your brewing rotation.
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 4:48 pm
by Crut
agreed with bumping up the honey. IN our mead club we usually use 12-16 lbs per 5 gal batch. Check out gotmead.com, they got everything you need to know about mead. Theres a chili pepper mead on there that is excellent!
-crut
Check this out, the Elk River Mead Men's page on MI homebrewers guild. a snippet of some we've done.
http://mihomebrew.com/blog/viewtopic.php?t=853
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:06 pm
by seanhagerty
I have saw this
recipe on B3 and have wanted to try it. Let me know if you try it. I'd like to know if its any good or not.
Sean
Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 7:24 pm
by Petedadink
Im in the mood for making some as well. This is how I was told to make mead
1... Use cleanest water RO or Distilled.
2... Add honey to carboy.
3... in a small amount of water disolve yeast nutrients.
4... Fill Carboy with water mix in nutrients and arrate. No need to stirr honey.
Pitch yeast (about 4 packs). Lavin White wine or Champene for big ones and ale yeast for smaller ones.
The yeast is now added into a low sugar solution, As it re-hydrates and starts is cycle they move about . Starts at top, slowly drops scooping up a bite to eat , eating on the way back to the top only to fall back down again. I was told it was easyer on yeast rather than pitching atop of a 1.120 starting gravity. It should also leave a cleaner honey profile.
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 2:45 am
by Sent From My iPhone
That's a really interesting idea, do you know anyone who's tried it?