Re: Cutting Lid for Immersion Chiller

Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:23 am

I don't have money, tools, or the ability and skills to operate any of the formally suggested. I would probably cause something to explode. Would sanitized heavy duty foil work as well?
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Re: Cutting Lid for Immersion Chiller

Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:38 am

Yes
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Re: Cutting Lid for Immersion Chiller

Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:16 pm

DiscoFetus wrote:I don't have money, tools, or the ability and skills to operate any of the formally suggested. I would probably cause something to explode. Would sanitized heavy duty foil work as well?


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Re: Cutting Lid for Immersion Chiller

Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:04 am

eNVy wrote:What kind of saw and blade do I need to use to cut a notch in my stainless kettle lid for an immersion chiller?


I used a metal cutting blade in my saber saw to do 18 ga stainless for my false bottom. Can't remember the brand. 24 TPI. Pack of 5 for $6.00 or so at Home Depot. Cut slow and they'll last a while. You'll have to clean up the burrs with a file or something.

I'm about to add an immersion chiller and use the exit water from my counter flow (~24C), so I was thinking: Why not put a couple of fittings high on either side of the pot and plumb the copper through with flare or compression fittings? It would be easy to remove the coil for cleaning and look a hell-of-a lot neater.

Obviously leaks would not be good. Any other disadvantages?

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Re: Cutting Lid for Immersion Chiller

Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:50 am

no disadvantages that I can see. I've thought about it myself. I only see it being a bit of a pain in the arse to get the copper coil tube ends into the compression fittings and attached to the keg easily. If you use a coupling inside the keg, to a nipple outside, with a nut or another coupling, washers, and silicon O'rings, your compression fitting will stick out pretty far into your HLT, which is actually good, keeping it in the middle, if it lines up right.

Make sure you do your other parts into the HLT first, or at least can plan around getting your thermometer, coupler for the sight glass, coupler for the spigot, all in there without conflict (plus possible heater element if you go electric).
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