Beer Forum

Hello need some help going to brew tomorrow a Pale malt cascade SMASH , but got some doubts.

Size batch:9 liters (i think it is 2.5 gallons) (sorry from europe, bit confused about gallons and lb and oz)
grain: 3.5 kg of pale malt
hops:
60 min cascade 17 grams
20 min cascade 28 grams
flameout 28 grams
will dry hop later 28 grams for 7 days
yeast US04 i package dry, ferment lower temps.

do you think the amount of grain is enough ?
used some programs to calculate og and fg but got confused, i think the OG it will be near the 1.060
targeting FG:1,010

abv 5.8
ibu 39.9
6.6 srm



Is this right?
Doing BIAB, full boil , thinking 11,5 liters at start to boildown to 9 liters

what temp shoud use to mash, and what strike water temp shoud i use? shoud i up the grain because my lower efficiency ?

it is my first BIAB and (full grain batch)

tkhs ppl

I would think this amount of grain would be fine with a Single Malt mash, I guess you put in whatever you want your OG to come out to. I am a BIAB brewer and have no prob getting 70% efficiency, so plug in whatever gravity you want and whatever efficiency you would think you could get, and go for it. Since it is your first time there is no way of knowing what kind of efficiency you will get. Shoot low if you have your doubts 65% maybe?

http://beersmith.com/blog/2012/12/20/mash-temperature-and-beer-body-in-all-grain-brewing/
This gives a brief overview of mash temp. read it and decide for yourself what you want to go mash at. JZ's pale ale recipes are mashed at 152 and 154 degree F.

What I do about strike water, is raise some water to around 170-175 and pour the amount that I need through my grain sack while it is sitting in a large strainer. I in no way get nice clear wert in my process but I figure running my water through the extra grain will help me with some efficiency. If anything just use this first brew as a learning process and learn how to use your set up efficiently, remember brewing should be a fun way to spend a free day. Have fun I hope my info helps, Im sure some other folks on here can give you a little more knowledge, Im not a master at this.

-PorkSlapper

Seems OK for a recipe. Nothing looks weird to me.

One US gallon is about 3.79 liters. For quick conversion, just figure 4 liters per US gallon. One liter is pretty close to one US quart. At the homebrewing scale it won't matter much until you get bigger than 10 gallons (38 liters). Then accurate volume is more critical. At 20 gallons you'd figure 80L, but it's closer to 75L, which is about a gallon different and can change your beer a lot.

meku wrote:Hello need some help going to brew tomorrow a Pale malt cascade SMASH , but got some doubts.

Size batch:9 liters (i think it is 2.5 gallons) (sorry from europe, bit confused about gallons and lb and oz)
grain: 3.5 kg of pale malt
hops:
60 min cascade 17 grams
20 min cascade 28 grams
flameout 28 grams
will dry hop later 28 grams for 7 days
yeast US04 i package dry, ferment lower temps.

do you think the amount of grain is enough ?
used some programs to calculate og and fg but got confused, i think the OG it will be near the 1.060
targeting FG:1,010

abv 5.8
ibu 39.9
6.6 srm



Is this right?
Doing BIAB, full boil , thinking 11,5 liters at start to boildown to 9 liters

what temp shoud use to mash, and what strike water temp shoud i use? shoud i up the grain because my lower efficiency ?

it is my first BIAB and (full grain batch)

tkhs ppl

Recipe looks great. The yeast you're using is actually a dry British ale strain. Normally I'd say that shouldn't matter, but I haven't had a whole lot of luck with that particular strain. I'd use US-05 instead if you can find it. Ferment at 20 C internal beer temp, which is about 16 C ambient temperature. I use the calculator at this web site for strike water calculations and it's never failed me. http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php Mash the wort a little warm because you don't want it too dry; 67-68 C...that's 152-154 F for the strike water calculator. Good luck!

tkhs ppl for the help starting now to brew.

should i replace de US04 yeast to some generic yeast i have here from some old kits for muntons??

meku wrote:should i replace de US04 yeast to some generic yeast i have here from some old kits for muntons??

I would definitely NOT do that. Those old yeasts are part of the cause of giving dry yeast a bad name. I have not had great (but not bad) experience with the US-04 either (like BB), though I think my problem was part my inexperience with dry yeast. The beer with the US-04 tasted fine, though if I bumped the keg and mixed the leftover yeast in, the flavor was not good. The US-05 is a bit more neutral, and so is often preferred over the 04. The 05 is also less flocculant, which allows it to clean up after itself a bit better (to my palate and system).


Good Luck! I have been on a SMaSH kick recently and been really digging it. It really lets you know how awesome good quality base malt can be.

i am a newbie , my first biab and all grain batch.
I think Smash is the way for me to learn the flavours in malt and hops one by one
mash in :
strike water:
167 f
mash in 154f ... hit the number will see if it can hold the temp wrapped a sleeping bag over the pot.....
15 minutes will take a temp reading

ps found a pack dry yeat safbrew s-33 what do you think?

Also, make sure to treat your dry yeast with respect. Re-hydrate with warmed water, about 24 C, in 10 times the volume of the yeast packet. So, for a 12 g packet, use 120 cl of water. Sprinkle the yeast over the water, cover with plastic film or foil, and let sit for 15 minutes. Stir together well and let rest until it has proofed, about another 15 minutes. In a properly aerated wort it should take off in a short time.

hope this helps,
Alan


EDIT: Post number 500!