Beer Forum

I am going to test my water for the mineral contents. One question that crossed my mind is if it makes any difference taking water right out of the cold tap? Would raising the water to strike temp then cooling it be more accurate?

RipCity wrote:I am going to test my water for the mineral contents. One question that crossed my mind is if it makes any difference taking water right out of the cold tap? Would raising the water to strike temp then cooling it be more accurate?

No. Take it straight out of the tap, and let it run for 5 minutes before taking the sample.

I use Ward Labs for water analysis. They send you the collection vessel, and complete instructions on how to collect it.

Charlie

Charlie wrote:

RipCity wrote:I am going to test my water for the mineral contents. One question that crossed my mind is if it makes any difference taking water right out of the cold tap? Would raising the water to strike temp then cooling it be more accurate?

No. Take it straight out of the tap, and let it run for 5 minutes before taking the sample.

I use Ward Labs for water analysis. They send you the collection vessel, and complete instructions on how to collect it.

Charlie

+1. Super simple, but the last time I sent my water in for analysis I had to provide my own water bottles for testing. But they do a great job and the results come back very quickly.

Thanks for the info. Bought a home water test kit. See if I remember anything from chemistry class. I had read that water loses Ca as its heated. Wasn't sure if it was significant enough to skew my results testing with cool water?

RipCity wrote:Thanks for the info. Bought a home water test kit. See if I remember anything from chemistry class. I had read that water loses Ca as its heated. Wasn't sure if it was significant enough to skew my results testing with cool water?

That's an excellent point! If your water is high in carbonates they may complex with calcium and magnesium to form CaCO3 and MgC03. If you had a detailed water analysis you could calculate how much Ca and Mg would be removed (assuming 100% precipitation as XxCO3) and compensate with the addition of gypsum and epsom salt. I like to see at least 10ppm Mg for yeast health, but I understand that up to 6 ppm will be supplied by the grist.

Charlie

The water heater won't alter the water chemistry too much since its a sealed system and decarbonation requires that the CO2 be driven out of the water. But for the most accurate assessment of the water, do use and test the cold water.

Decarbonation by boiling will not remove magnesium. The solubility of MgCO3 is too high and it doesn't precipitate. In addition, Mg precipitates first in the form of Mg(OH)2. Lime softening has the capability of precipitating Mg(OH)2 along with the CaCO3, if the water chemistry is suited to the process.

One thing to keep in mind is your water source. Depending where your water comes from things can change I've heard. I've heard that "dam" water can change due to the levels of the water changing and mineral content being higher if the water is being taken from the "bottom" vs the "top".

I've had mine tested and have wanted to do it again to check and see how it can change. But I haven't had the chance yet.

Hope this doesn't complicate things. It's been one of the aspects I've been trying to dial in and notice it's more complicated at times.

Cheers,

Kevin