Beer Forum

Posted: **Wed Feb 18, 2015 11:01 am**

I know MoreBeer recommends using a "step bit" to drill out a stainless kettle to install their weldless valve, but I am skeptical that the IRWIN UNIBIT #9 that I got from some big box store is going to do a good job. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best DIY way to drill a 1" hole in stainless (that will not tear the metal or end up giving me rust problems). Thanks - BenGBrew

Posted: **Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:10 pm**

BenGBrew wrote:I know MoreBeer recommends using a "step bit" to drill out a stainless kettle to install their weldless valve, but I am skeptical that the IRWIN UNIBIT #9 that I got from some big box store is going to do a good job. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best DIY way to drill a 1" hole in stainless (that will not tear the metal or end up giving me rust problems). Thanks - BenGBrew

I think the best tool would be a knock out punch, or a carbide cutter from a reputable manufacture, such as greenlee. But a good quality step-bit will be fine on thin stainless. I have never used Irwin bits, and have no opinion on them. Drill a pilot hole, and then the step-bit. Use liberal amounts of cutting oil, and don't let the piece get too hot. If your bit starts to get dull, it will get hot and work harden the piece. Once harded even quality cutters will have a hard time.

Also try and limit where your stainless shavings go. They make for irritating metal slivers

Posted: **Thu Feb 19, 2015 4:47 am**

I would second the carbide bit over the step bit. Although a step bit would work you just need to go slow bee's wax also works well as a lubricant.

Posted: **Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:49 pm**

I have used metal hole saws, regular twist drills (pilot point works best) and step drills. All of these work just fine. Just use low RPM, medium pressure, and plenty of cutting oil. If your oil starts smoking take a break until stuff cools down. The one thing that didn't work too well for me was a chisel point twist drill. If the drill and the work piece are not held firmly the chisel point tends to walk around and make an oblong hole.

Use a 1/2 round or large rat tail file to clean up the hole so the ragged edges don't cut the O-ring (or your hand).

If I recall correctly the weldless kits are 11/16, not 1", but a 3/4 drill or hole saw works fine.

Posted: **Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:41 pm**

I am right their with everything that these guys said. Your Irwin will be fine. I used the bit brewhardware.com sells. It is a cheep POS that he says will only do about 10 holes and I cut great. I cleaned holes up with 60 grit sandpaper easy, quick, I would recommend it.

Posted: **Fri Feb 20, 2015 10:08 pm**

My $0.02

I am in process of building a 3 element, 3 pump control panel with other goodies. I priced out the step bits and punches, and found them to be very expensive not to mention my time and labor to perform these tasks. I called a friend whom had used a laser cutting shop. The picture below is 304 Stainless 0.065" wall (16 Gauge) 18" x 10" panel. Laser cut by this company, with a #8 mirror finish. $20. 25 Holes of various sizes. Even has slots for the hinges, handles, and door lock mechanism. Most of the other cutouts are 1/16th DIN and 16mm standard switch cutout.

I could not even buy the material for that cost. Got my Conical lid in the same material but a #4 brushed finish, 16" in diameter and 2, 1/2", holes for the tri clamp ferrules to be welded on. $8

Consider using a laser cutting source.

Posted: **Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:40 am**

Kbar wrote:My $0.02

I am in process of building a 3 element, 3 pump control panel with other goodies. I priced out the step bits and punches, and found them to be very expensive not to mention my time and labor to perform these tasks. I called a friend whom had used a laser cutting shop. The picture below is 304 Stainless 0.065" wall (16 Gauge) 18" x 10" panel. Laser cut by this company, with a #8 mirror finish. $20. 25 Holes of various sizes. Even has slots for the hinges, handles, and door lock mechanism. Most of the other cutouts are 1/16th DIN and 16mm standard switch cutout.

I could not even buy the material for that cost. Got my Conical lid in the same material but a #4 brushed finish, 16" in diameter and 2, 1/2", holes for the tri clamp ferrules to be welded on. $8

Consider using a laser cutting source.
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That's an amazing price. I wish I new a shop like that around here.

Posted: **Sat Feb 21, 2015 9:00 am**

Bad Goat Brewing wrote:
Kbar wrote:My $0.02

I am in process of building a 3 element, 3 pump control panel with other goodies. I priced out the step bits and punches, and found them to be very expensive not to mention my time and labor to perform these tasks. I called a friend whom had used a laser cutting shop. The picture below is 304 Stainless 0.065" wall (16 Gauge) 18" x 10" panel. Laser cut by this company, with a #8 mirror finish. $20. 25 Holes of various sizes. Even has slots for the hinges, handles, and door lock mechanism. Most of the other cutouts are 1/16th DIN and 16mm standard switch cutout.

I could not even buy the material for that cost. Got my Conical lid in the same material but a #4 brushed finish, 16" in diameter and 2, 1/2", holes for the tri clamp ferrules to be welded on. $8

Consider using a laser cutting source.
[/url]

That's an amazing price. I wish I new a shop like that around here.

I am only 2 hours North of you, if I remember correctly Bad Goat. If you can export your drawing file as DXF or DWG then they can cut anything, and up to 1" Stainless. The order can be placed via email and then they may ship.

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