Re: Tiered brewing stations, etc

Thu May 10, 2012 10:44 am

Hoythews71 wrote:Definitely is starting to make more sense. I think I just need to keep doing what Im doing until I can get a few of the general brewing details a bit more polished, and start researching AG brewing in the meantime. By no means do I plan on heading out and spending a few grand on a top notch system out there...pretty badass if I could, but not going to happen!

Thanks for the inputs guys!



Something elseyou can do is go to the Brewing Sculptures thread started by JP and just take a look at all the pics and see what you like and what you don't.
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lunitick1976
 
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Re: Tiered brewing stations, etc

Thu May 10, 2012 1:33 pm

Hoythews71 wrote:Hey guys, Im pretty new into the whole brewing thing, still making extract brews, so Im pretty basic as far as equipment goes, but I keep seeing discussions about everyones brewing stations/systems, tiers, etc., and I guess Im too green to understand why theyre needed and how they work? Is this more for an all-grain brewer? I think some of them are pretty bad ass though, and Id like to have a better understanding of what each component of a system is for.

Im still brewing on the kitchen stove, but Id like to get an outdoor setup going with a propane burner so I can get outside during the warmer months.

Tim


Get a 10-15 gallon kettle (the bigger the better for when you go all-grain) and a propane burner and do full wort boils. That will help your brewing 100%. You'll also need a wort chiller. Chilling 5 gallons of wort in a ice bath takes too long. Make sure your kettle has a ball valve so you can drain the kettle and leave the trub behind without siphoning. Here's an old pic of an extract batch.

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Dirk McLargeHuge
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Re: Tiered brewing stations, etc

Thu May 10, 2012 3:37 pm

alan_marks wrote:There is another very practical and concerning aspect. Lets look at the whole process for a moment. In "all grain" brewing, the brewer needs to heat the brewing liquor to the proper temperature for enzyme conversion. In a 5 gallon batch that is around 4 gallons at 162 degrees F for a single infusion mash using a 5 gallon cooler with a false bottom. Now to reach "mash out" and have an effective sparge, with either batch or continuous sparging, you need about 5 more gallons at around 169 degrees F to go into this same mash tun. All the while this needs to drain into a kettle that can hold at least 8 gallons, with head room, so it can come to a boil. At 5 pounds a gallon, figuring the weight of the kettle itself, you need to lift at least 50 pounds of sloshing wort hot enough to cause serious scald burns onto a burner that you have already heated to bring the first 2 batches of water up to temperature. For me, as a professional chef, I'm used to carrying and dumping large heavy volumes of very hot liquid without hurting myself (been there, done that). So, the point to a tiered stand, for me, is to be able to do these things in a way that I won't hurt myself too badly on the way to the brew kettle.

Anyway, don't feel badly about this, since I do this by stacking buckets on top of buckets to tier everything so it all flows downhill. Like I said, I'm used to heavy lifting.

My two cents,


I have a 2 tier system because I am also comfortable with lifting large volumes of hot liquids. I found a galvanized stand for a hot water heater that my neighbor was going to throw away. I put my cooler on that, scoop hot water out of my "HLT" kettle with a glass pitcher to dough-in and sparge, and run off into my boil kettle that's sitting on the ground. Then I get help lifting the full kettle up onto to the burner and it's off to the races. With my old 8 gallon kettle I could lift it by myself, but I need help to lift my 15 gallon one when it's full of wort, that sucker is heavy!
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Re: Tiered brewing stations, etc

Thu May 10, 2012 8:17 pm

Check for a local Homebrew club. Attend a brew-in. Go to the nearest Homebrew shop. Try and get face time with brewer and ask questions. You will learn first hand and you will make new friends.
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