Beer Forum

I'm converting my burners to low pressure for my brew stand build. I drilled open the orifice to .090", which according to the charts is about 65,000 btu, but the flame just didn't seem to have much behind it. I had blue tips with the shutter about 90% closed, but they were only about 1/2 inch high. I drilled it open to .110", and then I couldn't even get a blue flame.

I put the stock tip in just to see what would happen and it blew back on me....decided not to try that again.

Is that pretty much the power I'm going to get on low pressure? I've been using a bayou classic stand w/ a 4" burner and I'm used to that thing throwing a strong flame.

I'm going low pressure so I can use pilot safety valves.

BrianL wrote:I'm converting my burners to low pressure for my brew stand build. I drilled open the orifice to .090", which according to the charts is about 65,000 btu, but the flame just didn't seem to have much behind it. I had blue tips with the shutter about 90% closed, but they were only about 1/2 inch high. I drilled it open to .110", and then I couldn't even get a blue flame.

I put the stock tip in just to see what would happen and it blew back on me....decided not to try that again.

Is that pretty much the power I'm going to get on low pressure? I've been using a bayou classic stand w/ a 4" burner and I'm used to that thing throwing a strong flame.

I'm going low pressure so I can use pilot safety valves.

Ok. Your post is very confusing. You mention drilling out orifices - which is usually done when converting LP (liquid propane - not "low pressure") to natural gas. Since you didn't mention replacing (or drilling) 18-20 tips - it sounds like you are messing around with a banjo burner. Those typically operate at 12-15 psi. I recommend getting an adjustable LP (again, liquid propane) regulator. the 0-30 psi works great for those.

If you are indeed trying to use a low pressure burner (like a wok burner), then you will need a special regulator from B3 (that knocks it down to 5 PSI or so). You shouldn't have to fiddle with orafice sizes.

Oh, and BTW, I would't put a low pressure wok style burner on the boil kettle... They are NOT adjustable at all (full on, full off).


Mylo

Sorry-I'll try to explain a little better. Yes, I have the 10" banjo burners and I plan on using propane. I originally bought the 20 psi regulator to go with them, but then I learned that the Honeywell pilot safety valves will only operate at low pressure (.5 psi) so I'm trying to convert the banjo burners for low pressure propane. Using such a low pressure seemed kind of extreme compared to using 20 psi, but it sounded like alot of other brewstands were built this way, including the orginal Brutus. So, I bought a low pressure propane regulator. From what I've read, you need to drill out the brass jet in the banjo burner where the gas connection is to adjust the air/gas ratio for low pressure propane. I used one of the on line charts to come up with that .090" number. That's when I tested the burner and was dissapointed in the flame. You think I can just use the stock brass jet that came with the burner without drilling it out?

Maybe all my thread reading has lead me in the wrong direction. How has everyone else automated their gas lines with a pilot safety set up? Any help would be great!

Hey Mylo, Are the regualtors I have seen you talk about truly adjustable compensator/reducer spring settings in the 0-30 Psi range or are they fixed springs (i.e. 30 Psi) and an adjustable orifice (read; needle valve)? I always assumed the easiest of the two. Allow a downstream reduced pressure across a fixed 30 Psi spring, then use the needle valve to get the gas flow you need. It is a simple compensator and variable orifice setup. If they are true regaultors, that would be a twist on the standard system.

Thanks for clarifying!

BrianL wrote:Sorry-I'll try to explain a little better. Yes, I have the 10" banjo burners and I plan on using propane. I originally bought the 20 psi regulator to go with them, but then I learned that the Honeywell pilot safety valves will only operate at low pressure (.5 psi) so I'm trying to convert the banjo burners for low pressure propane. Using such a low pressure seemed kind of extreme compared to using 20 psi, but it sounded like alot of other brewstands were built this way, including the orginal Brutus. So, I bought a low pressure propane regulator. From what I've read, you need to drill out the brass jet in the banjo burner where the gas connection is to adjust the air/gas ratio for low pressure propane. I used one of the on line charts to come up with that .090" number. That's when I tested the burner and was dissapointed in the flame. You think I can just use the stock brass jet that came with the burner without drilling it out?

Maybe all my thread reading has lead me in the wrong direction. How has everyone else automated their gas lines with a pilot safety set up? Any help would be great!

Oh, ok... I think I understand your desired situation, and it is my current setup. My sculpture is hard plumbed (with a gas beam, a la Brutus).... I use the 0-30 PSI regulator in to that, and I left my banjo burner alone. I use the 6" one, and find it completely adequate for boiling 14 gallons - but that choice shouldn't matter, if you want to go for the 10" one.

I also have the Honeywell setup on my HLT. So I put this regulator inline from the gas beam to my automated valve - which feeds a low pressure wok burner (with 19 or so tips).

During the brew, I do have mess with the adjustment a little bit on the main, adjustable regulator - cuz even though the regulator above will cut the pressure to the proper operating pressure, I think the flow is too fast if it set properly for the banjo on the boil kettle. It's only an issue if I am toggling from one burner to two or vice versa.

and Kbar - yes, they are actual regulators - just like what is on your CO2 setup. There is a needle valve on my particular one - but it needs to be wide open in order for my whole system to work.


Mylo

I like the idea of running high pressure to the boil kettle and stepping it down for the automated burners. I think I'll do a redesign.

According to some people on HBT, I still need to drill the orifices on the banjos for low pressure, but sounds like I went oversize with it. Should have only been in the .060" range.

BrianL wrote:I like the idea of running high pressure to the boil kettle and stepping it down for the automated burners. I think I'll do a redesign.

According to some people on HBT, I still need to drill the orifices on the banjos for low pressure, but sounds like I went oversize with it. Should have only been in the .060" range.

If you move the LP regulator to just in front of the honeywell, and feed "normal" high pressure propane, then you do not have to drill the orafice, as it will still be operated at high pressure.


Mylo

Ok Brian I hope this helps, when I built my brewery I too chose the Bayou burners but felt it may not allow me to fire two or three burners at the same time. As I like to salvage old stuff I used some of the parts of old BBQ's. First for the regulator, I went to a local gas company that also had a staff of very good field experts. I bought a "high" pressure reg. then equiped it with the short threaded nipple and rubber handwheel that was removed from the old one.Then some flex hose and some 3/8" od tubing then the stock orrifices that were shipped with the burners which I purchaced direct. To my surprize one burner worked fine but when I lit two they both dropped to an unuseable level. The fix, was in that treaded post of the handwheel it's equipped with a safty regulator of its own. Too much flow shuts it down! After learning this I was able to drill it out and OMG I got flame plus. That may be the trick you needed! Good luck