I am fairly good at building things, I just lack the know how on designing.

Basically, I want the following specs:
- 1/2" rigid copper frame (don't have a welder to make a steel frame)
- All electric system, 110vac supply
- Control panel with outputs and controls
- Temps
- Power on/off
- Indicators when Pumps/heating elements are on, etc
- Wanted to use 10 Gallon coolers (circular type)
- Want to use this unit indoors, but want to fit it out the door and have a small foot print as possible.

I been looking around and playing with the idea of building one for awhile, the only thing really stopping me is the know how in the design part. Especially since there are so many different ways to do this, figured if I can "sit down" with someone and hammer out details, pass ideas, etc etc that I would actually get of my lazy bum and do it.

Its late here, so hopefully all this makes sense to someone out there.

drake

I humbly suggest perusing wortomatic.com

Boiling 10 gallons on 110Vac isn't going to be easy. You will probably want to use two or three circuits presuming they are 15 or 20A each.

Since you're thinking all electric, an easier/cheaper stand could be made with wood, or by using one of the pre-made shelving structures.



Using 10 gallon coolers, he won't be making many ten gallon batches. But yeah, I would still say a minimum of two circuits.

Yea I am only doing 5 gallon batches using the 10 gallon coolers.

I actually have all the copper plumbing to make a stand and have started something, once i get a few things soldered together I'll post a pic or two.

Basically, I am looking at a HERMS setup and most likely going to go with a 2 tier setup.

I was presuming something besides the coolers for a boil kettle. I have two 12 gallon coolers and a 15 gallon keg for the boil. You might be able to boil in a cooler, once.

I don't know the specifics of the coolers you plan to use - But I have both seen and brewed on a couple of different systems with plastic electric boilers. Don't be too quick to discount the notion of a cooler/boiler.

In fact the insulation of the cooler would considerably reduce the oomph required to boil your batch. I would consider two 1200W elements independently switched so that you can run two to get up to the boil, but switch back to one if two is boiling things a bit too hard.

Mind you, I'm not saying I think that plastic is a better option that metal - just that you shouldn't bin the idea just because it isn't all that common. Aluminium pots are probably just as cheap as a cooler and you can be 100% sure they are OK.

We work on 240V ac here in Australia - but I know for a fact that 2400W is plenty for boiling a 5G batch... thats 10A here so it would be 20A on 110v. But you need to run your HLT and a HERMS unit (or have the HERMS unit in the HLT) so that's another element and another bunch of power required.

TB