this my design on the brutus 10, main differance is the auto/manual sparge. Controlled by a float switch in the mash tun that controlls the flow from the HLT just and set and forget

WOW. Very nice, Imakewort!

Very nice. I do the same thing with the sparge, but the float switch turns on/off a solenoid on the output of the HLT. Yours activates the pump?

Cheers

It controls a asco valve for the HLT water output , I set my wort flow to what ever I want to the BK and the float switch controls thru a PCB a asco valve for the HLT output. this way I continuously recirculate the Water in the HLT to maintain a constant temp. and it is diverted as needed to the mash tun. it's a set and forget till the HLT is empty.

I am curious. I am about to start down the long road of putting together a sculpture, and I was wondering how much you ended up spending on materials? This question goes for anyone that has put together their own sculpture (I'm leaning towards a single tier system, but I'd love to also hear from the gravity system guys!)

Baloo

Let me be the first to say "I hate you."

Nice rig. If your ever get tired of it. . .

That thing looks bad ass brotha!

Congrats!

What's the ammo can with the fitting for?

IMakeWort - that build looks really nice... congratulations on it. I see that you have your lines well insulated but still wanted to know if you have issues of temperature loss during your auto-sparging process between your HLT and your mashtun. I know that if you clock your your HLT at 178, that because the sparge water present in the line sits idle when the float switch is off, and due to the fact that because your sparge rate is really SLOW, well you're going to have a lot of time for heat loss in those lines. Have you measured the temperature of the sparge water at the point of input into the mashtun to see? I'd guess, even with all that insulation (only because it looks exactly like something I did a few years ago) that you're looking at 10-15 degree heat loss.