Piss poor pics...
But here's my creation in action




Build pics:






Ready for powder coat:




Spaghetti:

Sweet system. How is the powder coating holding up?

I mentioned it to the welder and he didn't seem to be interested in ensuring a leak free design, even though I'm pretty confident he probably did.

It's fried around the boil burner, but great everywhere else... I laid it on pretty thick.
For those contemplating powder, I suggest another alternative around the top rail.
Powder will begin to flow off around 400-450 degrees. I knew this, so I wasn't alarmed when it happened.
It'd suck if someone actually paid to coat their rig and watched that happen the first brew without any advance warning!!

Here's my setup:





















I moved 8 months ago and am now designing a new (larger) brewing room in the new house. Equipment and ideas will remain the same however.

My setup uses 20 gallon Blichman kettles, a HERMS coil in the HLT to maintain heat, and a control panel I custom built myself to run the show. All electric for indoor use.

My build criteria for system:

- 100% electric for indoor brewing
- Safe, easy, and enjoyable to use
- Not limit the brewer in any way
- Provide for extremely repeatable and consistent results
- Use industrial quality parts that last and are easy to replace (all stainless steel, limit the use of plastics)

I also have complete instructions on how to built it from scratch available for free on my website if anyone's interested: TheElectricBrewery.com

Cheers!

O.k., another question tleal. I can't quite make it out, but it looks like you have the same burner I just tacked on to my system (scroll down to bottom of this page: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9851&start=16). How much space is there from the top of the burner to the bottom of the brew pot?

I used my system with that burner for the first time this weekend and I think it is too close to the keggle. When the flame is up high, a lot of the heat just flows around away from the center. At one point I was heating strike water and the bottom chimb of the keggle was incredibly hot, but I reached down into the center of the keggle and touched the bottom. It wasn't hot at all. When I turned the flame down, the center actually got hotter.

Yep, I use those burners for my HLT and MLT and a big ol' Banjo for my boil.
I Believe that my wind guards are 6" and that burner is just short of 4" tall. My frame steel is 2", so all that considered... there's about 4-5" give or take an inch. I'll measure tonight or tomorrow.

I think you're onto it though... I never really run mine full bore. When I was initially setting the valve on each, I turned it up until it started to climb towards the skirt then backed it off a bit. I have since turned the MLT down even further since it is only required to add a few degrees at a time now.

Here you can kinda see where the flame is focused on the HLT... see the discoloration?:

Got the gloss stove paint from Amazon and sprayed it yesterday. I can't tell you how much better this stuff is over the flat black stove paint. The flat paint was rubbing off two weeks after application (and I did a good prep). The gloss/satin stove paint looks much better and doesn't rub off.



Also got my camlock fittings in and put the high flow impeller on the March Pump.