Lately when I have been no-sparging I use a typical 1.5 qt/# of grain for my strike water. I let that rest for 60-90 minutes based on my mash temp. I then add 185-190 deg F water to the mash to fill my tun (10 gallon gott cooler). I give it a good stir and let it rest for a pseudo mash-out around 165 F for 10 min. I then recirculate and drain my mash tun. I typicall hit at least 70% eff. doing this with beers around the low 1.050's. I do not have to add any significant amount of water back to the kettle for readjustment.

My guess is this - A lot of people oversparge a bit and that kills their malt character.

You get efficiency from two basic things - 1) Mashing properly and getting good starch conversion. 2) Getting as much of the sugar you made out of there as you can.

My theory is that a lot of homebrewers dont do as well as they might at the first half of that equation, and the reason that their brewing looks reasonably "efficient", is because they do, do rather well at the second. So, make less sugar than you could, but sparge reasonably intensively and get almost all of it.

Result - numbers look good but beer tastes less good than it should.

However, it so happens that the method you have chosen, with a very high L:G ratio and a thin mash... is very good at quickly and efficiently gelatinising & converting starches. Considerably better than mashes conducted at the L:G ratios usually touted as correct for homebrewers. So your brews make more sugar in the first place. Now you leave more of it behind than some one who sparges, so what you pick up on the turn you lose on the roundabout... and probably a bit extra too in absolute efficiency terms. But, because you didn't sparge at all, you certainly didn't oversparge.

Result - numbers look a little less flashy, but the beer quality is higher.

Thats why not everyone gets this loss of maltiness. Even in those who do sparge, if they conduct their mash well and intensively, their pH is under control, maybe they stir their mash, recirculate, step, decoct... they will always have to sparge less intensively to get a given level of "efficiency" and if they can avoid the temptation to go for 95% and glory...then their beers at say 80% will be better.

As are yours with no sparging at all.

Thats what I think anyway

TB

Thanks for the tips. I have been thinking about oxygenating my wort with pure oxygen for a while. Maybe it is time to switch.

What type of sparging do you do? Batch? Fly? It does make a diffrence.