Thu Sep 28, 2006 10:35 pm

I'm pretty sure I remember someone saying (in this forum I think) that they dry hopped right in thier serving keg, but they kept the hops in a bit of nylon stocking, suspended from the top of the keg by a bit of dental floss out through the lid and tied around a gas post. The dental floss is thin enough that it doesn't interfere with the seal of the keg.

That way the amount of hopping keeps increasing as you drink the keg, and you can just crack the keg and fish it out when its gone far enough for your taste.

I've got an APA in primary at the moment that I was thinking about dry hopping this way. Good idea or bad idea??
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Thirsty Boy
 
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Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:29 am

Thanks guys. Sounds like I'm on the right track. I can only bring my temp down to 34F in the fridge. I don't have a big enough freezer to go to 32F. I hope that this will be enough to get most of the job done.
My big reason for doing this is not just the Dr. Scott "because you can" thing. It's because I was told that when doing AG, you can't get rid of the chill haze with out filtering. To me, that became a challenge. My first thought was, "Bullshit!! Don't tell me that it can't be done. That would be insulting the knowledge base that I have access to in this forum." So now it's my mission to make a clear, non-hazing AG beer with out filtering. I know that it's possible.I also know that I may be proven wrong, but I have to try.
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by beer_bear on Fri Sep 29, 2006 5:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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beer_bear
 
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Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:38 am

i dry hopped a traditional english bitter like that just straight into the keg and it was amamzing. it was so good i didn't need to worry about leaving it in too long as the whole 5 gallons(british gallons) went so quickly. traditionally british dry hopped beers are always straight into the cask which is delivered to the pub.
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kegged- one ordinary bitter
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brewsters millionths
 
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Fri Sep 29, 2006 5:39 pm

I would try that, but I don't think that it would work in a bunch of bottles.
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beer_bear
 
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Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:30 am

I forgot to ask one other question. How long do I cash for? So far it's been chilling for 3 days. It will be a total of almost 5 days before I can get it out and bring the temp back up to 68. I guess this is the type of process that you just can't rush. But if it makes my beer that much better, it's worth it.
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beer_bear
 
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Sun Oct 01, 2006 4:13 pm

Cold crash?? 2-3 days should do it.
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bub
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Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:45 pm

Thanks BUB. Then I guess it's coming out of the fridge tomorrow. Then I should be able to dry hop fairly soon. Then pitch half of a pack of Nottinghams dry for bottle conditioning. Wish me luck.
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beer_bear
 
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Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:04 pm

Hey Beer Bear,

You've probably already done it, but I'd be concerned about the alcohol level of your fermented beer dickin' with the Nottingham and not allowing it to function normally and condition your bottles,...I can see how cold crashing a batch meant for a forced-carb keg would be OK,...but a bottle conditioned batch,...? I don't know,...let me know how it goes,...I've got a IIPA I was thinking of cold crashing for clarity, but decided against it in order to keep at least some of the wyeast 1056 in suspension for bottle conditioning,...which I plan to do tomorrow.

Ryan
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