Motorizing my Barley Crusher

[dunleav1]

Yes - it's the same motor.
The motor has a plug with four wires on it - Red, White, Blue, Green/Yellow (I'm assuming this is ground).
The capacitor has four unmarked prongs.
My homemade power cord will have ground (green), neutral (white), live (black).

SPDT switch is jsut a three way switch right?

1. power cord to two way switch (on/off)
2. then to the three way switch
3. then to the capacitor - what wires prongs?
4. then to the motor - what wires?

If someone can color code that for me it would be appreciated.

[codewritinfool]

Look up the earlier thread by BeerPal, this was all covered.

The capacitor has four TERMINALS, but that's really only two electrical connections. Be careful with that. If you look at it, you'll notice that the terminal metal is bent into a U shape and riveted in the middle.

[bcmaui]

Here is that other thread with the drawing

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=16479

[gifty74]

Hey guys, just wondering, was looking on Surplus Center and saw they also have a 152 rpm GE used electric motor. Do you guys who have the 102 rpm model think it's crushing too slow, too fast, or just right? I read the BYO article that recommends 150-200 rpm for a mill. Just thinking the 150 rpm model would be pretty ideal.

[bcmaui]

Hey guys, just wondering, was looking on Surplus Center and saw they also have a 152 rpm GE used electric motor. Do you guys who have the 102 rpm model think it's crushing too slow, too fast, or just right? I read the BYO article that recommends 150-200 rpm for a mill. Just thinking the 150 rpm model would be pretty ideal.

Either one would be fine. I just think you want to keep from going too fast. And the slower motor has more torque. The motor is quite a bit smaller than my flywheel mill motor was, but it does not overheat after 10-20lbs of grain.

I love dumping the grains in the hopper and letting this mill away while I get other things setup for brewing.

I do take the mill off it's base each time after milling as there is some grain left over underneath and I like cleaning this up to keep the bugs away.

[beltbuckle]

I motorized my valley mill with the 102 rpm version and like it a lot. I think either rpm motor would work just fine. They are nice and quiet motors. Much quieter than using a drill.

[gifty74]

Yeah, I found a youtube video last night of the 100rpm motorized Barley Crusher and it seemed overly slow, like much slower than I mill by hand. I'm thinking at least 150rpm when I order. I was using a cheapo Harbor Freight cordless drill but what once seemed to be variable speed now only runs at one speed...fast. I think it's too fast, and my efficiency has taken a hit. Also, kind of a paint standing there holding the drill. Would like to just load the hopper and flip the switch. Might just order me a motor soon. These used motors with the built in gear reducer seem like the way to go. So many posts and youtube videos show that bulky pulley setup with belts, etc. Also, one big downside that no one seems to account for is that the main shaft of the BC is absorbing all of the force from that pulley. I haven't seen one yet with the shaft supported on the other side of the pulley. Who knows how long before the bearings (whatever they are using) wear inconsistently and that shaft will start to wear and drift.

[Cliff]

also http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/

scroll down to Motorizing a malt mill http://www.ipass.net/~mpdixon/brew/Educ ... 20Mill.pdf

In his PDF he makes the following statement:
" Many brewers utilize a cordless drill for mill motorization, but it is tough on the drill and shortens its useful life. With a good quality drill going for hundreds of dollars, it makes more sense to motorize the mill."

Which sort of left me scratching my head.
A) A cordless?? WTF? he's joking right?
B) A corded MILWAUKEE hole shooter magnum will last your lifetime.

I have three Milwaukee corded drills. The eldest ( a 3/8" hole shooter) is over 30 years old and I have used it extensively as a screw gun, rebuilding several old homes driving 3 and 4 inch screws instead of nails all the freaking time. The last big projects were a 20 by 40 foot PT deck all of which was screwed together and a master bath which was also entirely screwed. I wrecked the reversible trigger and the replacement part was a lousy $30.00

If you don't want to motorize a grain mill ( Jeezuz just thinking of all the space that takes up) get a Milwaukee Corded Drill.
You'll use it for a goZillion other things and when you are dead your grand kids will fight over it.