Chefchris: Is this chart just for estimating the bitterness contribution? Because it seems like a cube hop would have a significant aroma contribution, while a conventional 20 min addition has ~zero aroma contribution.
I'm curious what full effect of late and cube hops are beyond bittering, how much aroma can you get with hops thrown into the cube and then sealed up to cool?
If you can get flavor and aroma from first wort hops, what makes you think you can't get aroma or flavor from a 20 minute addition? Everybody first learns that you only get bitterness at 60 minute, you only get flavor at 30 minutes and you only get aroma near flame out. That simply is not true. I have an IPA (of sorts) that was only FWH. I have bitterness, flavor and aroma in that beer. Also, just a theory of mine, you are adding cube hops to hot wort, not boiling wort. I can't tell you the affect of cube hops yet and the one beer that I used a cube hop is not ready.
Basically the chart is acting like you get an extra 20 minutes of utilization and changes some of the aroma additions as necessary. Like I said, I did not put that together and I'm sure it's not perfected, but I have been using it with good results. I just brewed my second batch of Moose Drool from CYBI. I chilled my first batch, my second will be ready in about a month. So I will see if I can notice any differences.
I do hope you give no chill a try. You'll have to see the results. The IPA I was referring to earlier has got the best lacing I have ever seen on a beer, homebrewed or otherwise. And I'm not one to say "All my beers are awesome". I'm very hard to please when it comes to beer, and I'm my biggest critic. Give it a shot!
Cube Hopping and FWH are (in my opinion) quite closely related. One of the reasons you can get flavour and aroma from a FWH addition, is that the hop oil hydrocarbon fraction, is exposed to heat and oxygen for a period of time, without the temperatures being so high (ie boiling) that the volatile hydrocarbons are immediately driven off. This allows a bit of time for the Hydrocarbon fraction to oxidise into more aromatic and more temperature stable compounds. Much of this is driven away by the boil, but a portion of it remains.
In cube hopping, a similar thing happens ... except there is no boil to follow.
I have cube hopped many beers - experiments done and BU analysis I have had done on cube hopped worts .. suggest to me that hops put into the actual cube loose
will give you a bitterness equivalent to that you would have gotten if you had added the hops at 25-30mins in the boil and then chilled. If you put them in a hop bag (with plenty of room in it) in the cube... this cuts down the bitterness they contribute and it will be closer to equaling a 15-20 min addition.
I avoid all mid to late hopping additions in beers I am going to no-chill. (which is all of them these days) They are pointless. All they will do is mess up your bitterness calculations. I add my bittering hops with 60mins to go ... and any other hops go into the cube, or are added to the fermenter as dry hops or a hop tea.
Cube hops give a wonderful hop flavour and a less intense, but more lasting and somehow deep hop aroma. You will (in my experience) find it hard to get the very very intense aromas that you might associate with a hopback or even a 0min/whirlpool addition - you just don't get the fraction of aroma that is caused by the hydrocarbon portion of the hop oils. You will need to dry hop and/or make a hop tea to get that.
Do the calculations for bitterness right - - and you can make a beer with no hops in the kettle at all. All yur bitterness can come from your flavour and aroma hops, in the cube.
I have done this a couple of times and it works very well. Its a little hard to judge the bitterness .. but after a couple of brews you get the hang of it. In the fementer as I type, is an American wheat with Nelson Sauvin and Galaxy as the flavour/aroma hops ... I actually had
to use some standard kettle bittering on this beer... last time I made it with cube hops only and the hop flavour and aroma were too intense. I had to swap in 10IBUs worth of kettle hopping to make the stuff drinkable.
If nothing else -- No-Chill gives you mad American bastards yet another place you can add hops; and I am guessing you probably will.
PS - I only use pellet hops. I have no damn idea what would/could happen with flowers or plugs